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SeggyFish24 SeggyFish24
  • Just popping in
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  • Posted on: Yesterday 22:36
Emergency fish first aid! Please help!! #1
Help needed from someone who has never owned and knows nothing about fish! Here’s the story...
Opened my front door 5 days ago to find a common goldfish on my driveway. I live in busy central London so it was a huge shock to say the least. As I got closer I see his gills are still moving so screamed at my sister for a bucket and some water. A few magpies and ravens were eagerly hopping about nearby and I assume they have had a few pecks at him as this fish was in a bad way! :( I brought him indoors and thought he would pass in peace out of the sun and bird pecking and he floated on his side or upside down for about 8 hours in a dimly lit room. Fast forward 3 days and he’s swimming round a large fish bowl with water I have treated with AquaSafe, with a hastily bought air pump oxygenating the water and I have added Aqualibrium Fish First Aid Salt. Today is our 5th day with him and he is eating for the first time which I’m so happy about! He’s lost a lot of scales and the skin underneath was very red and sore but has calmed down and gone to a white/pale orange tint now which looks much better. I therefore think he is improving! I am just so worried about the wounds ( he has a brown swollen lump that looks almost stuck on his left side) and the black marks all over him which I again assume are wounds? I’m really trying my best to help this little fella (now named Lucky) and if anyone can please give advice to a complete rookie in fish care on how to help him I’d be so so grateful!! Thanks, Sophie (I can only work out how to add one pic so have added a strange one but it shows the bad lump on his left side and the black mark on his right and over his nose)

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GJF95 GJF95
  • Just popping in
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  • Posted on: Yesterday 17:52
Plant Help for a beginner! #2
Hello there everyone, first time poster!

I have just recently purchased my first tank, a Fluval Roma 125 and I'm currently a week into cycling it, all going well so far!

I'm looking to add some plants to my tank however I never appreciated the scale of the aquatic plant world and as such was looking for some advice in getting started.

I have sand as the substrate in my tank and I'm looking to add some resilient and forgiving plants that even a beginner could have some success with, all suggestions welcome.

Finally will I need to add a substrate containing nutrients to my sand, or is the way to care for plants to use root tabs or a liquid fertiliser?

Many thanks in advance!!


Swimmer2 Swimmer2
  • Just popping in
  • Just popping in
  • Posted on: Yesterday 17:49
Re: Green Microscopic Algae Problem #3
Thanks for all the posts. I followed the link and my algae eater specimen doesn't look like the one shown, which appears to have markings. My algae eater is without markings and is an orange colour. A little more poking around on the internet suggests it could be a Gold (or Golden) Algae Eater (Gyrinocheilos aymonieri).

I do have a test kit and the results show pH 7.4; nitrate 0 ppm; nitrite 0 ppm; ammonia 0 ppm.

I can certainly step up the frequency and % of water replaced.


mclough mclough
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  • Posted on: Yesterday 15:03
Goldfish white scales #4
My goldfish has recently developed these white/missing scales and despite research I don't know what is happening to it. Could somebody please let me know if they've seen it before and what it might be? thx

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Amy75 Amy75
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  • Posted on: Yesterday 12:44
Re: Total newbie with specific circumstances needs advice on possible set-up #5
Hi again. I hope by the way that this is the right section of the forum for this thread?

I’ve looked up my water hardness and nitrate level with Yorkshire Water (I’m in Sheffield). There are lots of other measurements of minerals and chlorine so let me know if you need to know those.

What I have is:

Hardness type: soft
Hardness average: 10.1mg/l calcium
Nitrate: 2.54mg NO3/l

I read about cycling the tank. How many times in a day would I need to add ammonia? If it was something that just took a couple of minutes at a time, it wouldn’t be a big deal to get a carer to do it. The layout of my room right now means that I couldn’t put a tank next to my bed but facing the end of it, and I couldn’t move/reach enough to do it. Certainly not all the time.

Other questions I have about maintenance include whether there are any algae eaters, such as a non-reproducing snail like a single nerite that could live with a male betta? I don’t know if any species of fish try to eat snails? Or any invertebrates which eat algae and could live with a betta. I read/saw on YouTube that Amano shrimp don’t reproduce unless the water temperature is different to the usual tropical tank temperature (I think!). They lay and carry eggs if they breed but the eggs don’t hatch. I’ve seen tanks where people just have a couple of them.

I hope you don’t mind me asking all these questions whilst I’m still trying to make an assessment of how feasible it is to do this. I was disheartened last night but as I said that’s because I was imagining having to have a second tank to isolate and treat a sick fish if there was more than one, and that’s just not possible. I do still need to get an idea of how long/how often water changes take/take place.

Oh, and final thing for now - is the BiOrb brand a gimmick or does it really make the whole ecosystem lower maintenance? They do 60 litre cube shaped tanks (I wouldn’t ever want to use a small bowl shaped one).

Many thanks
Amy


Amy75 Amy75
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  • Posted on: Yesterday 11:40
Re: Total newbie with specific circumstances needs advice on possible set-up #6
I failed to take in the point about having a single male betta and how that would do away with the need to have a second tank if the fish became unwell.

I’ve heard that bettas are quite hardy as they even live in rice paddies sometimes where the water quality isn’t good (not saying this would be an excuse for neglecting the water quality but it does make them more attractive as a first fish for a beginner).

I’m going to look up the water qualities/hardness for my postcode today and will get back to you if that’s ok.

Thanks so much.


Amy75 Amy75
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  • Posted on: Yesterday 1:13
Re: Total newbie with specific circumstances needs advice on possible set-up #7
Thank you both for your very thoughtful and thorough replies. I’ve only just seen them at 1am and need to sleep, but wanted to reply.

I know my water is generally soft, but I don’t know the exact numbers so would need to look this up.

However, I must admit that I’m feeling from your replies that this probably won’t be possible for me. Deep down I think I knew it was unlikely. It’s really interesting to hear from others with health problems/disability who enjoy keeping fish. But I don’t have 24 hour care support (care funding has been cut so much in the UK in recent years) despite how ill I am, so a) my carers have limited time here per day and b) if something more time consuming cropped up, and/or was outside the allocated 7 hours of care I have split over the day, due to something going wrong, such as a sudden water change being needed or a fish becoming ill, I really don’t have the support to deal with that.

By the way, I had identified a single Betta as a possibility, out of interest.

This is very disappointing but I doubt this is a realistic option for me if I’m going to do it responsibly (which is the only way I would do it).


2010 2010
  • Home away from home
  • Home away from home
  • Posted on: 21/1 22:17
Re: Solar pump in a park pond #8
The article I linked to was written by me 10 years ago, so I thought it best I double check.

The price of (small) solar fountains has come way down, average price is now £10 but is really designed for a bird bath or tiny pond. (Which is what I said 10 years ago)

I was able to find a large solar floating fountain (See picture) which is suitable for the OP. However as I said 10 years ago, any such fountain will need an array of solar panels and will not be cheap, I was correct on both counts, this one needs 4 solar panels mounted on a pole (Pole not supplied) although I suspect as the fountain is in America it will probably need 6 or 8 solar panels to make it work over here, there will also be shipping to add to the cost as well as import duty and V.A.T. (The seller also said the price is subject to sales tax, thats an American thing) oh and the cost before you add on all the shipping, vat, duty etc? $6,900 roughly £5,300
Still want solar? I thought not.

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fcmf fcmf
  • Coldwater Adviser
  • Coldwater Adviser
  • Posted on: 21/1 16:16
Re: Total newbie with specific circumstances needs advice on possible set-up #9
Hi Amy,

I am very much confined to home due to health circumstances, and alone throughout the daytime, so I have some small understanding of what the situation might be like for fishkeeping and potential challenges from your perspective.

I would definitely say that having a tank to enjoy watching the living creatures / inhabitants is very enjoyable - you can totally get absorbed in the tank's antics. The downsides, though, are the tank maintenance and if the tank inhabitants become ill.

In terms of tank inhabitants, you've quite correctly realised that goldfish are not easy to keep and require a much larger tank - 140L minimum for a fantail goldfish (larger if more than one and they fare better in groups). You could have temperate fish such as white cloud mountain minnows but even they would need a heater for the cold, winter months when the temperature drops overnight (unless you keep your heating on 24/7). Your best bet would be tropical fish with a heater - just set it to the required temp and it goes on/off as required with its thermostat. Most of these fish need a tank with a minimum footprint of 60x30cm, though.

Tank maintenance involves water testing with liquid-based test kits (daily during the fishless cycle, then at least weekly before water changes, and more often if anything looks/goes awry), water changes and filter maintenance. I am fortunate to have help eves/weekends, with my partner carrying buckets/containers of old and new water, and able to dismantle and piece together the filter if it clogs up or needs maintenance - these can be time-consuming (and messy with spillages!). Water testing often takes 15 mins before a test is complete, at which point a(n extra) water change may need to be done to get water quality back to 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and low nitrates - although regular weekly water changes ought to mean that an extra water change isn't required very often if at all.

If a tank inhabitant becomes ill, this may need another tank to hospitalise the fish in and medicate. A small plastic one is ideal - but does mean two tanks/filters/heaters (and twice the maintenance). Rather than dismantling the main tank's filter to remove a piece of mature media to put in the hospital tank filter, it's best to have a small spare filter kept in the main tank at all times which can easily be moved into the hospital tank for such circumstances.

All products can be purchased online but often are too large to fit through the letterbox and need someone to be able to answer the door to the courier/postie. Treatments for bacterial infection and whitespot to hand are a good plan, in the event of urgent need.

Silk plants rather than live plants are probably best - although the latter are lovely, more maintenance.

If you had a tank with a single male betta (very interactive), or a tank with shrimp (someone may be able to advise on less prolific breeders) and ornamental snails only (and possibly live plants), these would probably be the lowest maintenance and could have a smaller tank than the footprint mentioned earlier, and water changes of 20-50% would be smaller too - and this would circumvent the need for a hospital tank.

Hope this helps.


Fishlady Fishlady
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Posted on: 21/1 15:47
Re: Total newbie with specific circumstances needs advice on possible set-up #10
Hi

I can certainly see the appeal of fish in your circumstances. I'm disabled myself and mostly housebound, though not bed-ridden.

A 55-litre tank does offer some possibilities for small fish, but to make viable suggestions we need to know how hard your tap water is. You can find out by going to your supplier's web site and looking for a "water quality in your area" link which should enable you to put in your postcode and get a full quality report including hardness. If you can also let us know what level the report says nitrate is that will help with the maintenance question as one of the reasons for regular water changes is to remove nitrate from the water (fish waste is converted by beneficial bacteria from ammonia>nitrite>nitrate which accumulates until we change water). The lower your tap nitrate, the slower it will be to accumulate to a dangerous level.

One thing that might be difficult is cycling the tank as this involves testing the water and adding ammonia daily (it simulates fish waste to build beneficial bacteria colonies before adding fish). Either you (if the tank is close enough to the bed) or a carer, would have to do this daily for 4-6 weeks. There's an article here which explains the nitrogen cycle and how to cycle a tank: https://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles ... hless-cycling-article.htm



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