Unless you were to ask Oase is there such an item as you require (and pay lots of money for it) I would suggest you make your own. As you in effect have a "wall" with a hole in it (I am not that familiar with Oase filters) could you not cover said hole with a "lid" from something* and silicone it in place? Obviously you will have to empty the filter and dry the side where the hole is and then silicone in place your lid.
* (Examples) CD case, drinking chocolate lid, old store card........
I have a oase biosys filter and I have taken the UV off thus leaving 1 hole in filter in which water can escape. The other one has the water supply in.
Does anyone know if you can get something that has a lip in the middle and a screw thread on both sides of it so I can screw from the inside to hold it to the filter and screw the other side to a blocking cap.
Also does anyone know the size of the hole as I think at moment it is 1 3/4 inches??
I'm not sure what to suggest as there are no clear symptoms - it doesn't sound like parasites. An anti-bacterial may help if the one fish is still showing signs of pop-eye as an infection could also be the cause of the other's lack of appetite.
The big tank won't show any ammonia until there's a source of ammonia in it. The small one with fish is at a very dangerous level of ammonia and you need to take action on that immediately.
As the small tank is not cycled and the larger tank may potentially still have some bacteria in the media your fish will be better off in the big tank. Even if it has no bacteria left, the larger water volume will mean toxins accumulate more slowly than in the smaller one.
ok its been about a mounth, the one that got better is doing great, the other still isnt eating.he is trying to to eat ocasionly but spit the food immediatly. After a few doses of prazi without any improvment i tried to treat him with Ektol Fluid by JBL thinking maybe the flashing is due to some kind of external bacteria that infected the wounds that the parasites caused. after i used it the flashing has stopped but he is still isnt eating.. its been a mounth without him eating.. he isnt geting worse but i really want to help him.. any ideas for other treatments that might help?
Thank you for the reply Fishlady. The small tank had been set up 2 weeks prior to putting the fish in but it was a new filter and at the time I wasn’t aware of cycling, I just knew I couldn’t put fish in a new tank straight away. This tank spiked at a reading of 8 for ammonia (nitrites and nitrates still reading 0) and I did a 50% water change. So I’m not sure if this has started cycling with the fish in.
Would it be beneficial to put some of the small tank filter media into the larger tank? The larger tank has gone to PH 7.2, ammonia 0, nitrite 0 and nitrate 5 although I had trouble distinguishing between the colours so it may be less than 5.
So from your reply I assume that I would be better putting the fish into the larger tank now. Is that correct?
Much of the beneficial bacteria will have either become dormant or died off, but there may still be some that will spring back to life once there is an ammonia source to feed on. I suggest getting a bottle of household ammonia to test how viable the bacteria is. Use the calculator in our guide to fishless cycling to dose to 3ppm then test 24 hours later for ammonia and nitrite. If either is present, you don't have enough bacteria and should continue as per a fishless cycle. https://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles ... hless-cycling-article.htm
However, what is being used to filter the smaller tank? If that is not a cycled filter the fish are at risk and you should test that one for ammonia and nitrite. If they are present, and the filter in that tank is not a cycled filter you would be better off putting the fish in the large tank with the previously cycled filter. This will give them a larger volume of water to dilute the toxins and the chance that the filter will build up enough bacteria quite quickly.