I would take a look at the Caresheets, and cross-check these against the more up-to-date Seriously Fish profiles (www.seriouslyfish.com) for what various species require (including tank size requirements, temperature, etc) to ensure that you can provide them with what they require and that your proposed species are compatible. http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/modules/ ... esheet.php?caresheetID=20 is the one for zebra danios - you'll see that they require a larger tank size than you currently have, unfortunately.
So as I am now back where my fishtank is (after a Christmas break), I decided to measure the parameters of my tap water and also my current fishtank water (with the Safestart and Aquasafe).
They seems to be as follows (pictures attached for verification):
pH: 7.6 High range pH: 8.4 Ammonia: 0 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: 0 ppm
pH: 7.6 High range pH: 7.8-8.0 Ammonia: Not tested Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: Not tested
I'm not sure if everyone would agree with these values? I'm sure the bacterial cultures introduced using the Safestart have led to a decrease in tank water pH compared to tap water. I didn't expect my tap water to be so alkaline! I'll need to get a pH reducer for water changes it seems...
I would check on http://www.scottishwater.co.uk/you-an ... uality/waterqualitysearch to see what your water hardness (in actual units of measurement) and PH range ought to be - input your postcode which will give you your water supply zone, while the 12-month detailed report will include the PH range and the hardness data document on that page will give you your results for your water supply zone.
Also, it might be that tap water left to stand on its own for a day or two produces a different result to that straight out of the tap due to the way it's treated - worth checking that too.
Thanks for the help! Will leave some out in a glass overnight and see what happens with regards to the pH. The range for my postcode is 7.4-9 with the average being 8.1 so definitely a bit alkaline. Will need to look at how to lower it to around 7ish.
Was reading up around Zebra Danios elsewhere just to see and many other sources quote 10 gallons as a suitable volume whereas mine is 12. I wonder if this might mean that they would be ok in my tank after all?
Very exciting time (but slow due to having to wait on ammonia! ordered online and waiting...) so can't wait to finally actually get some fish in it instead of just running the tank!
I'm going to hazard a guess that the sites quoting a 10 gallon as suitable are American - welfare standards over there aren't very up-to-date.
Zebra Danios are very fast swimming fish and need a long tank to swim and behave naturally. They also become quite aggressive to each other and other tank mates in low numbers and restricted space so a large tank is needed to allow for a large group of them too. They're also more temperate than true tropical fish and do best in temperatures below 24c so would restrict your options for other fish.
The care sheets on here use accurate data including details from the fishes' natural locations, but there are a limited number of species covered, this site has profiles for a huge number of species and is widely considered the most accurate available.
Great, that is a fab explanation! Might have to think about something else. Yes it did not state if it was US or Imperial gallons come to think of it.
I checked my overnight water and the pH seems to have dropped so will need to keep a bucket out the night before changing water. Good to know! Still finding the high range pH hard to read. The pH seemed to drop but the high range stayed around the same. All the shades of brown/orange start to blend into one a bit haha.
Ammonia is on the way - couldn't get it in a Tesco Extra so went to the saviour, Amazon!
Also got a new artificial plant so I can add that in in the mean time to cheer the tank up!
I'd be expecting the water where you are to be acidic, but the suppliers don't like acidic water going through the pipes as it can corrode them. To combat that they add temporary adjusters to raise pH until it exits at the tap, where over a period of time the adjusters used gas out and the water reverts to its true pH. It may take more than 24 hours to fully revert.
However, the most important thing for fish is the TDS or as an approximation the hardness and alkalinity. That is not affected by the pH adjusters, so there shouldn't be an issue when changing water, especially as only 25% or so will be changed.
What could be important to you, particularly during cycling, is the alkalinity (amount of carbonate in the water). Low levels of carbonates inhibit the beneficial bacteria and can slow or stall a cycle. The bacteria use carbonates as part of the process of converting ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate so you need to ensure you have enough to allow that to happen and keep it high enough for the duration of your fishless cycle. It's easy to do by adding bicarbonate of soda to the water, but it would be a good idea to get a gH and kH test kit so you know gH for choosing fish and can monitor kH to ensure it doesn't run out while cycling the tank.
3 days in, still sitting at 3ppm Ammonia and 0ppm Nitrite. I guess this is to be expected? I added the SafeStart thing when I started up the tank and thought the bacteria might make this go by quicker. Maybe they died off with the lack of ammonia?