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dwss59 dwss59
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  • Posted on: 13/5/2008 19:31
First reptile #1
Today we have taken stock of a juvenile corn snake.
We have a 3ft vivarium for him with 3 hides and a nice tree.

He's about 20" and reckoned to be about 1 yr old.

His name is Snakey, don't 2 yr olds have a good imagination!

Will post some pics after giving him time to settle in.
Central Americans; once they pop they don't stop!
longhairedgit longhairedgit
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  • Posted on: 13/5/2008 21:08
Re: First reptile #2
Cool cant wait for the pics, is he a normal, or a colour phase?

Not that cornsnake care is especially difficult or anything, but if theres anything you need to know, just ask.
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Goldnugget Goldnugget
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  • Posted on: 13/5/2008 21:16
Re: First reptile #3
Brilliant

Can't wait for the pics!
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cathie cathie
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  • Posted on: 13/5/2008 22:23
Re: First reptile #4
Quote:


His name is Snakey, don't 2 yr olds have a good imagination!



Don't they clamour for fluffy things too?
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dwss59 dwss59
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  • Posted on: 13/5/2008 22:44
Re: First reptile #5
He's an amelanistic x butter colour.

I did query the colour variants and the guy told me that they out breed rather than inbreed. Much the same with Electric blue jack dempseys so I hope this is true as didn't want an animal cursed with bad genetics.

So far he's just trooping about the viv and resting , just checking every thing out really. He doesn't need to be fed until monday so we'll leave him be until Friday before taking him out for a 15-20 min handling session.

Cathie regarding fluffy things the children did fight over who got to hold the frozen mice on the way home!
Central Americans; once they pop they don't stop!
cathie cathie
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  • Posted on: 13/5/2008 22:53
Re: First reptile #6
oh don't, reminds me of when one of our gerbils died and was lying in state in open coffin on my bed prior to burial, and it kept vanishing and turning up in small children's pockets (my youngest def. loved it better dead)
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longhairedgit longhairedgit
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Re: First reptile #7
Yeah make sure your not hand feeding if hes gotta be handled by kids, they sometimes get habituated to anything pink and finger-like which aint good with kids around. Just leave food for him and make handling a totally different unassociated experience.

You can "brain" thawed mice (literally just stab a hole in the head and expose the brain, disgusting I know but it gives many snakes an immediate food recognition if hes retiscent to take food straight off a rock or something without movement, also tends to make sure they grab the head first when theyre being dippy feeders) to make them more appealing in the absence of having to wiggle the prey to make it more appetising , or use very, very long tongs where the fingers never become a factor in food recognition.

Wouldnt worry about the colour impacting the health, bloodlines for captive corns are huge, chances are it wont negatively impact his health. Are the eyes pink or dark?

Nice one on getting a decent sized viv BTW, thats much better than doing the usual crappy little tub thing.
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dwss59 dwss59
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  • Posted on: 13/5/2008 23:06
Re: First reptile #8
Cheers for the pointers. I intend to use tongs for the food like you say so absolutely no association to fingers.

His eyes are red/pink

Have just read on a corn snake site that once they're wandering looking for a means of escape they don't feel too stressed so fingers crossed there.

For me monday will be the worry to see if he feeds. Has beeen on one small mouse but apparently after the last feed stayed out looking for more food.

Feel like a child again, its wicked!!!!!
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longhairedgit longhairedgit
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Re: First reptile #9
Well alongside the braining trick, you can also offer a mouse warmed by water. A lot of people are paranoid about quick thawing rodents because it makes them go off quickly if you leave them in the cage and they go uneaten for a few minutes, but few snakes can resist a slightly warm moist mouse with an exposed brain. Just dont leave one youve fast thawed and warmed around for long, and never defrost them in the microwave. Make the mouse no longer in the body than 3 times the size of the head for a comfortable feeding with a relatively young snakes, and dont forget for tricky feeders you can also try gerbils , baby rats, hamsters (limit hamsters , theyre fatty) and day old chicks go down well with corns on occassion. Despite the family name ratsnakes, cornsnakes are very fond of poultry. Also a little tip is that natural colour mice and multicolour mice have a different smell to albino frozen lab mice, so theres always a few options for feeding stimulation, and also remember to seal rodents properly in the freezer, snakes donty like taking anything with freezer burn. All of the aforementioned rodents can be bought frozen in bulk.

Make sure you get a hygrometer too, humidity is an important and much overlooked part of snake care, with only one functional lung its very important to get the humidity right as well as the ambient and basking spot temps.

Your snake having red eyes is basically a true albino in terms of needing some protection for the eyes, so while a decent 12 hour photoperiod with uva will be useful for normalising behaviour a diurnal snake, you can keep striplight choices small, low wattage and mount them high so as not to cause him discomfort. Basking spots if you choose to use lights should be deep red bulbs.

What are his primary heating sources atm?
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dwss59 dwss59
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  • Posted on: 14/5/2008 10:18
Re: First reptile #10
He has a 20w heat mat that covers one side of the viv, set to 28-9 degreesC. Its taped down so that he can't get underneath it and burnt.

Does he need a separate tub/hide with moist stuff in to aid shedding? Also how often do they shed?

cheers
Central Americans; once they pop they don't stop!