well ive decide to get a new pet but instead of fish an reptile so i searched the internet for snakes but i asked my mum and she said no and she also said no to lizards so i was left with frogs which arent a reptile but i do like amphibians. so after searching for natice australian frogs who would not need a license because to me licenses are expensive i found a common frog in australia known as the spotted marsh frog. so my questions is for any frog owners out there what is the best foods to feed all forgs generally so the basic food, what subtrates did you used becuase im really confused on which ones to use, what lighting and heating methods so for the lights the frog im getting is nocturnal and doesnt really need a light during the day but could it have one of those nocturnal lights at night and also for lighting what are good plants to have for a frog tank and whatlight would i need for them, for heating the frog i wnat to get does not need high tropical heat but a lower heat just wondoring because it gets hot during the days sometimes here whats a good method of keeping the tempreatures down and the lst quesion what is the best method of fltration for them.
Most frogs are better balanced nutritionally on the invertabrate end of the diet, usually the wormy end, though crickets and roaches can be gut loaded to ensure maximum nutrtion, and youd wanna keep moths, maggots and mealworms to a minimum really, but theres many options for feeding frogs. Some of the big predators will take whole fish and meat pieces.
Pick a species puka. Id recommend argentinian ornate horned frogs myself, big, colourful and really easy to house. Big predator too, and will probably hand feed, though soft tongs are recommended, they have a hell of a bite, though being a turtle owner, thats not anything your not used to .lol. they also make some of the best weird noises. My personal favourite among treefrogs is the agalychnis callidryas, but thats not really a beginner species.
Treefrogs are of course gorgeous, but might need some tall caging orientation, and branches above water, plus feeding them is a little trickier. A tall paludarium suits them best. Some toads dont even need much water, so thats really easy. Depends what you want really.
So think about choosing from a group,
1) Terrestrial dry land. Usually a moist sandy peat loam, and some cover, probably just a shallow water bowl included. Many toads will like that, and some forest flor species.
2) Arboreal tropical with paludaria kit branches and plants. Ground dwelling moist setup with a bit of water, lots of peat and moss primarily for treefrogs, flying frogs etc.
3)Totally aquatic, pipa toads, ADF's, xenopus frogs, firebellies etc.
4) Or semi aquatic, typically swampy bog setups.Equal water and land portions and low orientation, Bullfrogs, leaf frogs, tomato frogs, poison frogs, mantellas etc.
What do you have a yen for? Oh yeah , be aware that some frogs are real singers, and to remain popular with ones parents best to choose one that doesnt sing at a severe decibel level all night at any hint of rain, and beware when you get into keeping crickets, they can get pretty loud too.
thanks for all the advice dont worry about the links ive read them before i was just wondoring if anyone had other information but thanks for the help.
ok im going for the last one LHG i think it looks really cool with like a waterfall and stuff thia is what i sort of what to create http://www.brianstropicals.com/building.html i like the way he used riccia as an cover floor so what i would have is probaly diffirrent little islands sort of things with the cocofibre then riccia then the rest water then some plants and bogwwod. ok my options for frogs is probaly leading towards the Marsh frog http://frogs.org.au/frogs/frog.php?frog_id=22 reasons because they look cool with the spots they will drive my family members mad because im keeping them in mmy room, they dont need a license and they avalable from the aquarium or from my friend who has breed them. next frog is this one Southern brown treefrog http://frogs.org.au/frogs/frog.php?frog_id=3 first of all they dont seem to need a license they look cool stay small bad point though is that i havent seem them in the pet shop but they should be available. ok no offence LHG im not quite sure about the hornet frog i like small frogs and the hornet one is big and no offence but its juust not a frog i like sorry. not available frogs are dart frogs and american and europian frogs are out of australia so i can get any of them i think. thanks for the advice though
Lol , no problerm puka, sounds like a good choice of frog and a setup, dont worry too much about ambient heat, where you live its probably warm enough without doing anything special, and water heating just like you would for an aquarium is probably plenty. Your frogs wont bask so lighting isnt needed except for display purposes. Land portion, water area maintained as you would for an unfussy fish without too much flow, bogwoods above and below water , lots of mosses, and epiphytes, and it should look good. Could even try an ultrasound mister mounted on a little waterfall, love that foggy look in the tank, plus it means you dont have to worry about spraying the land portion daily. As long as you keep the paludaria nice and clean you should find frog keeping a doddle. Make sure the land portion doesnt get a chance to be waterlogged and get stinky and it will be easier. I used to have predrilled perspex fitted in the aquarium with barrier mesh or a pesticide and chemical free hanging basket liner on top, and just put the substrate on that. Stuff like finely ground coconut husk, peat , sphagnum moss and sand mixed. It retains water, but excess drops through, ensuring ammonic wastes from frog pee dont build up in it.
Whereas a turtle aquarium doesnt really need to stay cycled, its nice to keep a frog aquarium cycled, saves their legs and bellies getting scorched by ammonic wastes.
With that kind of setup maintenance can be absolutely minimal, the land portion actually acts as a low level denitrator, and if you only have a small frog in proportion to the setup, the mister providing a steady wash through on the substrate, a filter in the aquarium part,and a load of plants, youll get much closer to a stable equilibrium than many aquarists ever do in their fishtanks. I set one up for a park where I used to work, and then left to concentrate on animal rescue for about 6 months, and came back and asked them how it was going, they said they only topped it up, they never really did water changes, and when I tested the nitrate -5ppm! I kid you not.
you've really got me inching to set up one of thoas dart frog setups off that site really like them allot mr git would it be possible to have a larger water section and have some type of fish in ther as well
Well combining dart frogs with fish isnt ideal, because although they primarily lose their toxins according to the food their getting, it will still be trace, and youd probably have to permanently run activated carbon. The other major problem with dart frogs is that they are a terrestrial species, and they can actually be drowned fairly easily, so combine shallowness for safety and the absence of flow so they dont get caught in current and youve got a low 02 level for fish, and limited space.
I guess bettas and dart frogs might work if you can keep the toxicity really low. Its most likely to work out with moderately small treefrogs that are non toxic and moderately sized gouramis.
Generally a good paludaria is a bit of a masters art. Perhaps try fish like pearl gouramis and hyla cinerea green treefrogs. Dimensions would need to be about the same as a 55 gallon for humane habitable space for both. They key is shallow water fish with little mouths, and frogs that only feed above water. Frogs will eat fish and fish will grab frogs legs,so you have to choose species that wont take large foods, and since most frogs have virtually flip top heads, small fish are a major no-no. Quarantine properly. Aeromonas is common in fish and curable, but in frogs its almost impossible to treat.If your mixing species from different continents its doubly important to quarantine, mostly for the sake of the frogs. Make sure you choose acid water fish too, the frogs decor will nearly always dictate the ph goes acidic.
Generally mixing fish and frogs is a bit of a mistake, but it can be pulled off as long as you research the species properly, and this is the major thing - make paludaria large! A half filled aquarium plus terrestrial decor adds up to not much oxygen. A gourami that might be ok in a 10 to 15 gal tank , still needs that space in a paludarium, taking the size up to 30 gallon plus, factoring in the loss of surface area, probably closer 55. Make sure no species of either fish or frog ends up an afterthought, make sure they both have space. Small paludaria are nearly always crap and lead to disease.
ok sorry i havet been able to reply quicker the website dissaappeared for two days somehow. any way while it was away i went to another forum website called aussiepythons.com and they said i could keep marsh frogs and southern brown tree frogs together. i still dont get the waterloged part sorry couldnt i just have the gravel then the cocofibre but only fill the water up to the gravel then the mosses on the coco fibre. thanks for the advice though and gwa84 thewebsite brians tropicals which i had before is all about the care of dartfrogs i beleive.