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puka777 puka777
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  • Posted on: 11/11/2007 2:57
EGG care #1
ok now that i have sorted all the problems of my turtle meaning that they are getting on together the male(clam is his name) is respecting the female (tetra his her name) and the sore on clams nose is good and it wasnt from food compitition because i didnt even feed the turtles the day it happened, but now another thing has risen clam is a male turtle and tetra is a female turtle meaning tetra would get gravid, ive read how to check for eggs ad ive figured out how she will lay them i just need advice for filling in the blanks.

ok every week i clean the tank and put the turtles in different boxes now i have a farely large plastic container -which when i find out tetra is gravid- i will put a subtrate in (blank what subtrate?)ok i ahve to continue you this later
puka777 puka777
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  • Posted on: 11/11/2007 3:02
Re: EGG care #2
continue...............

so then i will put tetra in the container and she will dig and lay her eggs then i will get another big container filled with water and put the turtle eggs(in the container)
into the bigger container wich has this much water(blank
how much water should i put?)
then i place a light over them (blank yes or no?) then a heater in the water to 28 degrees (blank yes or no).
then ive created an incubator, if im wrong can someone please tell me and does anyone know mating signs with turtles like nibbling or something or floating on top of each other.
thnaks to anyone that knows
longhairedgit longhairedgit
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  • Posted on: 11/11/2007 12:05
Re: EGG care #3
Ah, the finer points if reptile egg laying and incubation are needed. Dont say you didnt ask.lol

The first thing to bear in mind is that turtles like to lay their eggs in secrecy, meaning that if you move her about when gravid it can actually put them off laying. In addition they regulate their personal body temperature with increased accuracy during the gravidity period, and that means confining them somewhere outside of their normal environment to lay eggs can go horribly wrong. If she gets too hot she will get exhuasted, and if she gets to cold she wont have the muscular energy to lay.

Therefore the best compromise is to have within their vivarium, a substantial land area, (and this is where you begin to notice that turtles arent really a good species for standard aquaria.) The females will dig and lay without disturbance, and after this has happened undisturbed, you then move the eggs, being very careful not to rotate them, (reptile embroyos suffocate and drown within the egg if rotated more than 5 minutes after laying)into a suitable incubator, sometimes helps to mark the eggs with a non toxic pen so you always know which way up they are.

Generally freshwater turtles will want to lay in sand or loose soil, they arent especially fond of laying in the preffered incubation media like pearlite mixed with peat or vermiculite. The trouble is , when you try to incubate eggs in something like real soil in captivity, generally the drainagee is either too little or too much and the eggs either drown or rot or dry out, which is why its better to keep laying substrates and actual incubation substrates seperate.

While its a good idea to have an incubator well sorted in advance , I wouldnt expect the turtle to actually lay in it. Rather better is to have the aquarium designed so that there is a partition in it.One side has water , the other side has a damp soil, peat mixed with sand and sphagnum moss, and you just arrange or silicone a piece of textured cork bark next to the partition so that the turtles can get on and off it easily. Usually all you have to do is silicone in a nice thick sheet of perspex that is accurately cut to size. The land portion will also serve as a much better basking area than you have now, so its worth thinking about it. Your female turtle might not get gravid for months, and wont lay for many weeks after she has become gravid so you have plenty of time to get such things sorted out.

In the meantime you can get the incubator tested for consistancy, say a standard 85% humididy, a nice even temperature throughout the incubation media,with no more than a 2f variance, and see how it needs toping up with water or not. It might be worth saving up for a thermostat or design a system that has a box with substrate within that has water regulated by an aquarium heater. Substrates should be right on the limit of being damp without being saturated, so that if you squeeze it in your fist at reasonable strength, water doesnt pour out of it.

Tricky business is providing a good laying area, and then providing a suitable environment for egg incubation. If the incubator isnt precise on both temperature and humidity the eggs either never hatch, or the young may be born deformed. Its worth speding some time testing it for consistancy over a long time to make sure the incubator performs well under a range of environmental conditions.
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puka777 puka777
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  • Posted on: 12/11/2007 8:45
Re: EGG care #4
righttttttttttttttttt didnt really understand all of that but i turned it into my language.
so instead of my i dea i create another aquarium which is possble actually instead of a tank ill use a large plastic which are cheaper.

then i know what to do for incubator ive read it alot.

the one thing i need to know how the hell do i tell if my turtles gravid and what signs are of mating, another thing the only way they breed it says in my book is that they need to have a change of temprature like in nature so i was thinking in a weeks time(just letting my new turtle to get comfortable with the tank) i let the tempreature to drop to 20 degrees and lower light hours to show its winter
then after a week of this i make the tempreture higher and longer light so about 26 degrees and this will show that its mating season. will this work or do i not have to do it.
longhairedgit longhairedgit
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  • Posted on: 12/11/2007 14:59
Re: EGG care #5
Well, some female turtles produce eggs whether they are brumated or not,and whether they have been mated with or not, although generally for the males fertility to be high their gonads have to mature sperm in cool temperatures for a couple of months, that way when they do mate and the female produces eggs, they actually hatch.

As for telling if the female is gravid or not , well thats a tricky one. Usually youll see some weight gain, and they seem to be a bit fatter in their shells, especially towards the rear, when very gravid the rear hips get pushed back a little,but it is very difficult to tell. Its often a lot of digging , trying to make nests that gives the game away, which is why I said that they should have a digging area as part of their standard aquarium.

As for mating rituals, welll , they will happen often, whether it leads to successful mating or not, often males will try to coax females by small nips on the legs, often they try to stare into the females eyes, and sometimes they fan the females face with water with their front legs. The only conclusive sign is when the male actually mounts the female, and often that can happen at night or when you are out of the room. Most turtles will prefer to mate in secrecy.

Thats why all the stuff for egg laying has to be part of the standard aquarium. Most people will never know if their turtles mated, or if the female is pregnant. Its generally better to assume that sooner or later if kept in peak health, they will mate, and the female probably will get pregnant, but youll never really know exactly when it happened or exactly when she is ready to lay.

Unfortunately they dont really do it predictably or at request.lol, you just have to be ready for when it does happen, which means having a tested incubator that can be assembled quickly at a moments notice, and a vivarium that includes a land area with somewhere to dig so she can lay whenever she is ready. Then you just transfer eggs when you get them, into the incubator. Its not really an exciting process, it s a bit like watching paint dry TBH, you just ,make sure you have all the kit ready, and do what you have to do on the day.

So to make it absolutely clear theres three concepts you have to have clear in your mind.

1) design the aquarium that your turtles live in to have a land area available into which the female can dig 24/7, 356 days a year so that she never retains eggs and dies.

2) stop trying to predict when it will happen because you cant really know.

3) Have a well designed and tested incubator ready for when you need to transfer eggs to it.
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puka777 puka777
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  • Posted on: 13/11/2007 0:57
Re: EGG care #6
so ill change the tank around maybe i can put a box full of sand on top of the dock, but also do i need to change seasons to get my turltes to breed/
longhairedgit longhairedgit
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  • Posted on: 13/11/2007 1:45
Re: EGG care #7
If you want the males fertility to be high, yeah a seasonal cooling is necessary, but a lot of turtles breed anyway. Make sure you do it when it is actually a cooler season in aus though rather than do it out of season. Your turtles are right near a window, they can tell what time of year it is from the light quality, they wont be fooled. If you drop temps when it isnt time youll just make them ill and cause maldigestion issues because they wont want to slow down. You cant force a reptile into a false brumation period when they can see the outdoor light .
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puka777 puka777
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  • Posted on: 13/11/2007 8:02
Re: EGG care #8
there smart creatures well i guess ive got my christmas list ready lol, ive figured out a cheap but good working icubator which i already have most of the equipment for then when seasons change here ill change the turtles tank tempreature, so summers coming up so ill put the heat to 26 degrees so thats figured out, then the next thing is where im going to put the land area its evolving in my head, i guess like i said before put a box with sand in it on the dock would that be alright??????????
puka777 puka777
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  • Posted on: 13/11/2007 8:04
Re: EGG care #9
actually i just got an idea if i get a aquarium poster would the turtles not see the light and then i could do the seasonal thing
longhairedgit longhairedgit
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  • Posted on: 13/11/2007 16:50
Re: EGG care #10
Nah, they will still see the refracted light around the room anyway. Whats the rush to breed them anyway? Its probably better from your point of view if they gain size and strength first, thusly making the female more likely to survive the egg laying process.

Besides if you do get eggs, successfully breed them, do you have any idea what youll do with up to 30 baby turtles? Dont rush to breed animals until your sure you can find good homes for them, and you wont know those homes exist until you research it. Theres always a very good chance the turtles will end up in the hands of an idiot or an abusive keeper, and you wouldnt want that for a creature youve loved and cherished and raised from an egg would you? Suppose you were to sell them to a shop, or as is often more likely, be forced to give them away. How would you feel going back to said shop in a few months time to find them unsold, perhasps sufferring from neglect and deformity.

Please have a think about it first, fools rush in and all that.
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