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Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 26/1 21:56
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #11
In the big tank, the filter is running, ammonia is around 1ppm, so there should be something for the bacteria to 'eat' and I've tossed some fish food in it to have that break down into ammonia too.
I spent a good few hours researching some more. I also had white cloudy water in my tank after filling it up, for a couple of days. It was Christal clear when I filled it up, then suddenly went white cloudy and then the cloud cleared. Apparently that's a bacteria bloom? So I have some hopes for that big tank cycling.

Little tank had a 50% water change which 50% I dosed with the correct amount of medicine, and Prime, which arrived today. The fish are very active.. in fact I am a bit worried about them because they seem stressed, darting around every time I go near them, which they started a few days ago, it was one of the reasons why I suspected something is up, but they were better this morning. I have covered a part of the tank with a white sheet so they see less movement around. Lights are off but the bubbler has to be on because of the filter and because they need air, with the medicated water not being able to hold it very well and ich causing issues with their gills, but they are more settled when the bubbler is off.
Should I feed them tomorrow? They haven't eaten in like 3 days now. Feed them peas, light full of vitamins?
Fishlady Fishlady
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  • Posted on: 27/1 7:39
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #12
The fish will be OK without food until the treatment is complete. Adding food now will add to the bioload so best avoided until you're in a position to do water changes.
Lil2606 Lil2606
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Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #13
Should I be testing the water in the little tank? I'm double dosing it with prime, but that would still show up in the test kit, wouldn't it?

Thank you so much for the help!

My boy seems frustrated to be in the little tank but he seems well otherwise, still no spots or anything visible on him, but this darting around and skittish behaviour just seems so off.. I think its the girl doing it and he follows along as a good schooling fish, and that its freaking him out, but he doesn't instigate it. I'm worried that they are hurting themselves. I can hear them whacking themselves against the tank walls occasionally its very alarming.

Could it be flukes? Is it possible that its both flukes and ich, can I treat for both? I can definitely see the little white spots on the tail fin of the girl.. I'll try to get a picture, but as I'm reading and researching, everything says they should be quiet, lethargic, not buzzing around like maniacs. I did see the girl trying to scratch herself at the bottom of the tank too.

I effed up getting the King British medication I think... I'm just trying to be decisive and take action before I loose them :( I think the medication is good, but for the life of me I can't find anything about using it in combination with something against flukes. King British doesn't seem to have anything that treats flukes most of their stuff seems to be against fungus and bacteria, not parasites.

Is it too late to change course and get the Esha Exit and Esha Gdex, it says on their website that those 2 can be used in combination against ich and flukes. If its not too late, how do I go about it?

I could practically do a complete water change as my tank is not cycled... and keep dosing prime in the new water, and add the carbon back in, leave for a day or 2 then start the new meds?

Or should I just wait, complete the King British treatment then do something about the flukes? What could I do to calm them down in the meantime?

I am most definitely obsessing about them, but its just so bad to watch them suffer :(
Fishlady Fishlady
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  • Posted on: 27/1 22:40
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #14
It's unlikely that they also have flukes. The white spot will cause them to flick themselves against the sand/decor as it irritates them. Carry on with the treatment you have and complete the course. If there is no improvement you can consider using Exit afterward.
Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 1/2 10:16
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #15
Okay, so Big Tank had taken a big step forward this week in water quality, Ammonia down to 0.25ppm and nitrites down to 0.5ppm, I have seen the warning with the API test kit that the nitrites could be much higher and the test is confused, so I made a 50% diluted sample and I do get the 0.25ppm with the diluted one, and I also don't see the drops turning purple then back to blue, so all seems in order.
I have put LOADS of fish food in the tank, way more than 2 or even 5 fish would need, added a little verbal confirmation: 'Oops' to accurately simulate the shaky hand / child trusted with the fish food container scenario.
I think I successfully colonised my filter from the older sponge that was from my previous tank, they just needed to grow in their numbers and I have now removed the old sponge, and the values hold, so I am pleased with that progress, but I am suspicious because it was literally 1 week.. Any thoughts on that?

White Spot is not clearing. This is what the box says:
"White Spot (Ich) Life Cycle:
1: Immature "tomites" grow into adult "trophonts" under the fish's skin, The fish then produces mucus to heal the wound, and the white spots appear.
2: The tophonts leave the fish and form a free living cyst within the aquarium. Inside each cyst the tophont devides into 100s of tomites.
3: The cyst bursts open releasing tomites into the aquarium which swim freely through the water
4: Tomites find other fish to host them and burrow into their skin, the cycle starts over again.

White spot is only vulnerable to treatment in its free-swimming tomite stage, so treatment will need to be carried out for 14 days to cover the entire lifecycle."

So I am 1 week into the treatment (where I need to add 1ml / 9l every 48 hrs), I see no improvement. Time to change meds? Also how does Esha Exit make it go away in 3 days if the lifecycle of the parasite is 14 days.... Or do you add the Esha stuff for 3 days and then just leave the fish in that water for 14 days?

-----

Update on that.... I also see a white stringy poo situation now... what meds do I change to? Will the Esha 2000 help with that?
Fishlady Fishlady
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  • Posted on: 1/2 10:31
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #16
Quote:

Lil2606 wrote:
Okay, so Big Tank had taken a big step forward this week in water quality, Ammonia down to 0.25ppm and nitrites down to 0.5ppm, I have seen the warning with the API test kit that the nitrites could be much higher and the test is confused, so I made a 50% diluted sample and I do get the 0.25ppm with the diluted one, and I also don't see the drops turning purple then back to blue, so all seems in order.
I have put LOADS of fish food in the tank, way more than 2 or even 5 fish would need, added a little verbal confirmation: 'Oops' to accurately simulate the shaky hand / child trusted with the fish food container scenario.
I think I successfully colonised my filter from the older sponge that was from my previous tank, they just needed to grow in their numbers and I have now removed the old sponge, and the values hold, so I am pleased with that progress, but I am suspicious because it was literally 1 week.. Any thoughts on that?

You could well have cycled that fast using media that already contained bacteria - however as food breaks down very slowly (it is designed to resist breakdown to prevent ammonia spikes) you may not have raised enough bacteria to fully stock the tank. Any new additions should be 2-3 at a time with two weeks gap between additions.

Quote:
White Spot is not clearing. This is what the box says:
"White Spot (Ich) Life Cycle:
1: Immature "tomites" grow into adult "trophonts" under the fish's skin, The fish then produces mucus to heal the wound, and the white spots appear.
2: The tophonts leave the fish and form a free living cyst within the aquarium. Inside each cyst the tophont devides into 100s of tomites.
3: The cyst bursts open releasing tomites into the aquarium which swim freely through the water
4: Tomites find other fish to host them and burrow into their skin, the cycle starts over again.

White spot is only vulnerable to treatment in its free-swimming tomite stage, so treatment will need to be carried out for 14 days to cover the entire lifecycle."

So I am 1 week into the treatment (where I need to add 1ml / 9l every 48 hrs), I see no improvement. Time to change meds? Also how does Esha Exit make it go away in 3 days if the lifecycle of the parasite is 14 days.... Or do you add the Esha stuff for 3 days and then just leave the fish in that water for 14 days?


That information is misleading - the lifecycle of the white spot parasite is temperature-dependent. It can take 14 days in cold water, but as the temperature rises the cycle is faster and for instance, at 25C takes only 6 days. You would treat with Esha for 3 days and not do a water change until day 7.
Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 1/2 11:32
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #17
Big Tank - that's good news, I will do some water changes to reduce nitrates which will reduce nitrites and ammonia further, and keep monitoring for a few more days. I added the Fish food in, last Wednesday, and then some more on Saturday and now this morning... so I'd hope that by now at least the food from Wednesday decayed enough to produce ammonia...
I only have the 2 sickly fish so I could move them back in, and start them on the new meds in the big tank see if their condition improves and if it does then use the little tank to get some new fish and quarantine them.
The poorly fish in the little tank are in cold water (room temp, no heater) at the minute, they are temperate fish, the heater is in my big tank, so that could have slowed the ich down, but yeah I am concerned that this medication is not good enough to help them. Especially now with the stringy poo, and I noticed some holes in the fins of the girl. No spots just holes, so I think I need to up the game here.

So plan is...
Little tank:
Later today, big water change, and add the carbon back in the filter.
Leave til Thursday.
Thursday morning, move the heater into this tank, and let it slowly come up to temp, not shocking the fish. Once the temps match, leave them for a couple of hours, then move them to the big tank.

Big tank:
Today, remove carbon filters, do a small (20%) water change (I want to leave the decaying fish food until I put the fish back in),
Tomorrow: check water quality, do a small (20%) water change,
same on Wednesday morning, Wednesday evening, do a water change, remove the water that gravel hoovering removes, get rid of the decaying fish food as well.
Thursday, move the fish back in, and in the evening start them on the Esha meds.

I can do a heat rejection test today, if I just turn off my heater in the big tank now, and check how quickly the temp drops away, then come Thursday I can do better in matching temps between 2 tanks with the 1 heater I have.
Lil2606 Lil2606
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Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #18
Another interesting point is that I still only have the 5 tiny dots on the girl and none on the boy.. so at this point I really doubt it is really ich.
Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 1/2 19:45
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #19
Here is the lady with the few tiny spots.

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Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 1/2 19:46
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #20
Hard to see but its on her tail fin at the bottom.

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