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grayson grayson
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  • Posted on: 28/9/2011 21:48
Re: fish sick #21
thanks noodle. what readings should i be aiming for for a healthy pond of my size/stock?
grayson grayson
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  • Posted on: 28/9/2011 21:53
Re: fish sick #22
if something went wrong with the pond construction what test would show that? new concreate was laid and several layers of pond paint applied. thinking back, it was a struggle getting the pond paint to dry as was 2 weeks of bad rain (despite being covered)?? is there a way to test the pond infrastucture is ok??
Jellybean Jellybean
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  • Posted on: 28/9/2011 22:17
Re: fish sick #23
Quote:

grayson wrote:
if something went wrong with the pond construction what test would show that? new concreate was laid and several layers of pond paint applied. thinking back, it was a struggle getting the pond paint to dry as was 2 weeks of bad rain (despite being covered)?? is there a way to test the pond infrastucture is ok??


No idea about the construction of the pond but if you used paint especially formulated for ponds it should be ok but wait for others advise.

Water readings should be Ammonia & NitrIte 0, NitrAte no higher than 50ppm ideally closer to 20ppm or less, to an extent this depends on your tap water nitrate too. NitrAte is the last stage of the nitrogen cycle and can only be kept in check with partial water changes.

Now: you will have to thin the ammonia and nitrite by doing daily partial water changes, not sure how easy this is going to be seeing as its a pond but you have to dilute the toxins. It will also help your fish if you can add air to the pond..again not sure how this will be achieved so wait for others to give advise.
Fishlady Fishlady
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  • Posted on: 28/9/2011 23:49
Re: fish sick #24
Quote:

grayson wrote:
if something went wrong with the pond construction what test would show that? new concreate was laid and several layers of pond paint applied. thinking back, it was a struggle getting the pond paint to dry as was 2 weeks of bad rain (despite being covered)?? is there a way to test the pond infrastucture is ok??


The most likely issue that would be caused by bare concrete would be increased kH and pH due to lime leaching into the water from the concrete. However, you have ammonia and nitrite present and the symptoms your fish are showing are classic for ammonia/nitrite poisoning. This is due to the pond having too much stock too soon after set up. As stated, partial water changes on a regular basis are needed to dilute these toxins until the filter is cycled - which will be when tests show 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite consistently over a few days.

A very rough and ready check for lime in the water is to compare the pH of the pond to the pH of your tap water after letting a cup of tap water stand for 24 hours. If the pond is a much higher pH than the tap water then it may warrant further investigation BUT at the moment the problem to deal with is the ammonia and nitrite, which are not related to any construction issues.
grayson grayson
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  • Posted on: 29/9/2011 9:48
Re: fish sick #25
noodle re "partial water changes on a regular basis "

how much is partial and how oftern is regular??
Fishlady Fishlady
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  • Posted on: 29/9/2011 10:10
Re: fish sick #26
While there is ammonia/nitrite present it needs doing daily - with tanks it's typically 25%, but not sure that's so practical with a pond. 10% or so min I would think. The other option is daily treatment with something like Prime which is a water conditioner which locks ammonia into a safer form and also provides some protection against the effects of nitrite, but that would be expensive and would still need water changes once or more a week. It is also a problem in that the locked ammonia is still detected by most standard tests so it's hard to monitor the situation and know when there is free ammonia (the toxic form) present. In tanks we use an Ammonia Alert which only detects the harmful stuff, but that can't be used in a pond unfortunately.
grayson grayson
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  • Posted on: 29/9/2011 19:27
Re: fish sick #27
did more tests this eve

ph = 7.8
amonia = 0.5
nitrite o2 = 0.5
nitrate o3 = 20

then ive done a 20% change, added 1kg of salt and ammonia remover.

fish much more active than yest
Violet Violet
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  • Posted on: 29/9/2011 19:34
Re: fish sick #28
Hi

Example of the pond version of Prime and dosing here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seachem-Pon ... _Fish&hash=item4cf4334c73

It's not cheap but very handy in emergencies. Will affect the ammonia readings though when you test as Noodle mentioned. But there are special water testing kit's you can buy when using treatments like this that give you a true reading. Cathie mentioned them before I'm sure
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grayson grayson
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  • Posted on: 29/9/2011 22:17
Re: fish sick #29
thanks

what effect does leafs have on the pond. whilst i get most of the out, there are a few that have fallen in. do they contribute to ammonia/nitrate levels etc??
Violet Violet
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  • Posted on: 29/9/2011 22:21
Re: fish sick #30
The odd few I would think are quite normal in outside ponds but 'any' form of decaying vegetation (including dead leaves) will create an ammonia source.

It's why pond instructions normally carry the caveat of not siting near trees, well that and potential root damage to the pond of course.
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