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mr_mop mr_mop
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  • Posted on: 21/2/2013 14:32
Fin rot and internal parasites? #1
On Sunday I bought some new fish ( guppies ). The next day, two of the three were looking bad. Ragged tail fins and sickly.
I quarantined them and have been treating for fin rot. Both are now looking better ( fin rot appears to have stopped ) but they both got down to about half a tail fin, and one lost the dorsal fin.

I'm worried about that most sickly one however, as it does eat, but its faeces is long, thin and clear. I've read this is a sign of an internal parasite.

Any tips on treating?

I called LFS and was asked 'are you sure you bought from here?' and told 'all of our fish are fine, it must be your water'

Water is 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and baseline water nitrates.

This did not fill me with confidence.
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mr_mop mr_mop
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  • Posted on: 5/11/2012 14:57
Re: Fishless cycle - doesn't appear to be going anywhere... #2
That's good news; thank you very much for reading!

I'll up the temperature and adjust the filter outlet and see how that goes.

Hopefully it'll start going a bit quicker!
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mr_mop mr_mop
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  • Posted on: 5/11/2012 14:19
Re: Fishless cycle - doesn't appear to be going anywhere... #3
Thanks for the reply.

I'll try to answer as best I can.

> Firstly which water conditioner did you use? can you
> check the label and see whether it treats both chlorine
> and chloramines.

The water treatment is this one (recommended by local shop): ... /detail/2316/jbl-biotopol
I read the bottle and it treats both of those chemicals.

> Next, is your filter running with the outlet pointed at
> the water surface to create agitation and so oxygenate
> the water.

The outlets of the filter are near the surface of the water, running parallel to it. There is some surface agitation and bubbles can be seen floating around in the water.

> What temperature is the water currently at? It needs to
> be higher than normal tropical temperatures to speed
> cycling, but not more than 30C. A good cycling
> temperature is around 28C. If the temperature is lower
> than 24C this can slow thing s down.

The thermostat is currently set to 22C. I'll try upping this to 28C

> Do you know the pH and hardness of the water? If the pH
> is low and water soft, therefore lacking carbonates this
> can affect the cycle.

The water pH is about 7.6-7.8.

> What type of gravel, decor, ornaments and plants are in
> the tank - were they new/used, were they cleaned before
> putting them n the tank and if so, how were they cleaned?

The tank, gravel and decor are all new. I washed all with tap water and a clean cloth prior to putting them in the tank.

The gravel is this one: ... ts/detail/3398/jbl-manado
and was washed carefully with tap water.

The decor are some of these: ... decoration/natural-ferns/
These were also thoroughly rinsed in tap water prior to putting in the tank.

The tank is a Superfish Aqua 45

mr_mop mr_mop
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  • Posted on: 5/11/2012 12:48
Fishless cycle - doesn't appear to be going anywhere... #4
Hi folks,

Was wondering if you could give any advice on a fishless cycle that doesn't appear to be going anywhere.

I added water and water treatment to a 45 litre tanks.
I then followed the instructions at: ... hless-cycling-article.htm

I added household ammonia to get 3ppm and added the bacteria tank started that I had (Tetra brand)

After a couple of weeks, I've seen no change in any of the levels of ammonia, nitrite or nitrate.

I am testing with an API Master test kit.

Are there any common gotchas with running a fishless cycle? Any ideas what I could have done wrong?

mr_mop mr_mop
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  • Posted on: 2/6/2009 8:08
Re: Mystery thing attached to my WCMM #5
Just a quick update.
Got the nitrate down to something closer to tap water. Will try another few changes to get it right down.
Rotating a variety of foods which seem to be popular.
The thing whatever it was seems to have gone, so it seems to have done the trick.

Thanks for the advice.

mr_mop mr_mop
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  • Posted on: 16/5/2009 13:07
Re: Mystery thing attached to my WCMM #6
OK, I got the test kit. Thank you for the recommendation.

Here are the results:

pH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0
Nitrate: 0
Nitrate: 180ppm.

I also checked the local water for nitrate, so I guess as you suggested I need to do lesser volume water changes more often.

I've also bought a variety of natural foods in jelly. Daphnia, blood worms and tubifex worms. Will suppleme ant their food with that to give them a better diet.

Thanks again for the help.

You mentioned that 9 is too many fish for a 30L Biorb. IYO how many fish would be a safe number?

mr_mop mr_mop
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  • Posted on: 11/5/2009 9:18
Re: Mystery thing attached to my WCMM #7

cathie wrote:
I'd second all that EagleC just said except that the main filtration in a biorb is undergravel filtration using the ceramic media, chucking out the sponge in the filter cartridge as the manufacturers recommend is unwise as the sponge also becomes supplementary biological filtration not merely mechanical filtration as the manufacturers assert, and can tip the balance when the filter is barely coping, so it is wise to cut it in half and change only half at a time, but it is not wholly disastrous in all cases e.g. if the biorb is very lightly stocked (must revise that article some time).

Thanks for the advice Cathie. I'd been leaving the sponge behind and changing the charcoal/coral bits only after reading that advice here.

mr_mop mr_mop
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  • Posted on: 11/5/2009 9:15
Re: Mystery thing attached to my WCMM #8

EagleC wrote:
hmm. Sorry, this might be hard to hear but ...

Not at all, I was prepared for the worst. I'm not an experience fish keeper ( hence the choice of Biorb ) and so any advice is taken gratefully.


EagleC wrote:
First off you're overstocked and without results for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate you don't know what effect this is having on the water quality. You need to get a decent liquid test kit as soon as possible. The API mini-master freshwater test kit is my favourite.

Wow, I am certainly glad I didn't follow the manufacturers recommended maximum of 12 small fish. What is the most fish that can safely survive in the Biorb?
Right, I'll go out and get one of those kits straight away.
I guess I need the results before asking for advice on how to adjust.


EagleC wrote:
Second problem is that its a biorb, really terrible gas exchange and filtration. I don't think anyone has had a fish live a full and healthy life in a biorb, especially a 30L.

Because of the small next of the orb? That's partly why I keep stocked with plants. Do they not help as much as I expected?


EagleC wrote:
Water change of 50% is too much in one go and every 3 months is too long between changes. 20% weekly would be far better for them.

OK, I'll try to adjust my schedule. I think that will be possible, as changing 6 litres will be a lot faster and easier than 15.


EagleC wrote:
When you say you put a new filter in do you mean that you completely replace the filter as per the biorb instructions? This is actually very bad for the fish as the tank will have to cycle all over again and never reach any sort of biological stability. (see signature link for explanation on the nitrogen cycle)

I'd read on here previously that changing the sponge was a bad idea, so I have been throwing away and replacing the charcoal/coral mix that's in the bottom and keeping the sponge.


EagleC wrote:
What are you feeding them?

Flaked fish food made by Tetra.


EagleC wrote:
From what you've said so far I believe this is not a parasite but instead you are seeing the long term effects of biorb housing, nutritional deficiency, water quality and stability issues and cramped conditions. There is little that can be done except to improve nutrition and get a proper tank.

OK, I'll get on with testing the water and adjusting as required. If you have to recommendation for food, I'd be glad to hear it. Thank you very much for the advice/help.


EagleC wrote:
all that said, can I finish on a positive note. The normal life span for a WCMM in captivity is 3-5 years so you're not doing all that bad by average keeper standards.
In the wild they live to around 10 years though and this is the guide that I believe we should set our standards by.
I can highly recommend a rectangular tank of 50L upwards with a good quality filter and large airpump.

That's a relief, with my bad efforts, I'm doing average. If I can up the effort, and have some healthier fish I'll be very happy.

mr_mop mr_mop
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  • Posted on: 10/5/2009 16:11
Re: Mystery thing attached to my WCMM #9
Thanks for the reply EagleC

I'll try to answer you as best I can.

Size? / Volume? Its a 30L Biorb.
When set up? Its been set up for a good 4 years.
Fish? There a 9 WCMM.
Test Results(ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, temp)?
Last pH test I did was around 2 months ago, and was around 6.5
I haven't ever tested any of the others.
Maintenance routine? I change around half the water every 3 months or so, with a new filter. I clean the sides of the tank every time algae builds up.
Recent changes? I introduced 3 new plants as the other two had been eaten/died.

Should I separate him from the other fish?

mr_mop mr_mop
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  • Posted on: 10/5/2009 11:34
Mystery thing attached to my WCMM #10

First post, straight in with a question, bad form I know. Sorry :(

Anway, does anyone have any idea what is attached to my WCMM?
He seems healthy enough, is displaying with the other guys to catch the ladies, but he has this attached to him and his body has gone a bit wonky shaped. A bit like a ~