I've had a look at the link, looks like a good source of info. I have been there a bit before but never found that particular page.
From what I can see Nitrogen shouldn't be a problem, he's recommending NO3 in 20-30ppm range, I'm certainly there.
Looks like possibly my Phosphate levels are a little on the low side, 0.25-0.5ppm as opposed to 1-3ppm. So I probably should look at dosing additional Phosphate.
As I said, I have no idea about Potassium levels, so I think I take a look at the solution I have and see what the recommended dose is for getting to that sort of level.
I don't particularly like the idea of a 50% water change weekly, I've already discussed this at length with EagleC and AndrewAmano and personally I think I will stick with my bi-weekly 15% change. But its good to see another site recommending daily dosing of nutrients.
I will have another read in more detail and see what bits of it I can make use of.
Interesting about the iron. I do have a really nice Ludwigia Repens which is a great red/orange colour and I think its colours better when I dose regularly. I might consider reducing my dose for a few weeks and see if it has a negative effect.
I will certainly look into the dosing of phosphates, I do test for PO4 and usually it creeps up to 1-2ppm when not dosing other nutrients, and drops to around 0.25ppm when I maintain my regular dosing pattern. I had taken this to mean that when the levels were right across the board the phosphates were being used up and thus sending the levels down. I was also under the impression high phosphate levels were a key cause of algae and thus I was trying to keep this to <0.5ppm.
I didn't think I should need to dose Nitrogen since my Nitrate levels are reasonably high 30-40 (high stocking so plenty of waste). Is the nitrogen in the nitrate not in a readily accesible form? Will have to look into that.
The potassium dosing is at the recommended level, but I could look into upping it a little (I have plenty of it, I picked up a large bottle of Kent stuff from LFS for ?3 as they were clearing old stock). I guess the problem is there are no easy way of testing for potassium levels. Or is there?
I'm fairly aggressive with trimming the swords (and others), as they generally grow well, its just recently I noticed the loss of pigment.
Its 190l Trigon tank (so reasonably deep), with 75W of lights. 2x20W T8 (with reflector) and 1*35W T5 (compact, no reflector). The additional T5 is mounted on rear flap thus giving majority of light to rear corner, which is where the plants are concentrated. I've thought about adding more lights, but its not easy, so have have to make do for now.
I dose daily with Seachem Iron (suggested 2/3 times weekly dose for my tank size), but it always seems to be taken up quickly so I dose more regularly.
I dose Seachem Flourish, Trace and Potassium (I thought I was short on potassium a while back and it I don't think its hurting using it) twice weekly. Currently these doses are spread through the week according to some suggested plan I found on Seachems site, but I'm planning to put it all in together when I do my bi-weekly water change. The dose is just what is suggested for tank size by Seachem.
I occasionally put some root tabs in around the larger plants (ie swords). I think I put some in a couple of weeks ago.
Just to clear up some possible confusion, when I set thin I didn't mean the shape of the leaf. The actual leave is thinning, ie pigment is being lost and then plant matter is beginning to thin away, no doubt leading to holes eventually.
Tanks coming on quite well now (I keep meaning to take some pic's). My Ludwigia Repens is looking really nice, the top leaves have gone a really nice yellow/red. And Java fern has really taken off. My crypts are still very brown, but they seem healthy enough, plenty of new leaves.
I've still got an algae issue, but I'm not as concerned as before. I think its getting better and water is definitely better (bi-weekly 15% RO change), GH is down to 140ppm (from 280 several months ago), KH is around 100ppm and pH at 6.9 (so CO2 at around 20ppm).
Main thing I'm looking into at the moment are my large amazon swords, I've trimmed them extensively over the last few weeks (plenty of growth and also for aesthetic reasons). I've noticed that some of the leaves are a little thin in places (ie starting to deteriorate). Its not on all leaves, and I think there is still time to get the leaves back into full health. I just need to determine what the likely cause is.
Looking at my books and online, the most likely candidate would seem to be CO2. Although I would hope that 20ppm would be enough (I've only got 75W for the 190l trigon).
Yeah I've heard of people doing that, sounds like a pretty good idea to me.
How'd you end up with an air bubble Eagle? Where was it getting trapped?
One thing I've thought about is feeding the overflow valve on my Vario diffuser up into the intake. Its mostly dissolved by that point anyway, and might help make use of the last little bit. Not so sure if it does result in air being trapped in the filter though.