I'm now well prepared. My only worry was that by taking the old pop sock/tights out, i would be reducing the amount of Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate leaching into the water, and that this might have a detrimental effect on the cycle? Also, can anybody tell me whether I should be carring out partial water changes during a fishless cycle, or does that just defeat the object by diluting Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate levels?
I've started to cycle my tank, I'm using a pinch or two of fish food twice a day in a new, rinsed, nylon stocking. Now, I've not seen any specific instructions regarding this, but do I need to empty out the food I've already added every so often to stop it becoming a big fungal mess? OR do I just keep adding food irrespective of the amount of decay, until the tank has finished cycling?
I'm not doubting you've searched your socks off, but I had a similar(ish) experience some years ago. When you took your bogwood out did you check ALL of the nooks & crannies? I remember lifting a big piece of bogwood right out of my tank and finding my plec still attached to it! It was really lucky I noticed it, (just caught sight of the tiny movement when it's gills were flapping) because the wood was going back in a pot to be re-boiled!
I should explain a bit first. I have an aquaone, but don't like the trickle filter that comes with it, so I've bought an Eheim external filter.
16mm pipe is what came with it & is the correct size for use with the accompanying hose. However the intake and return flow "shepherds-crooks" which come with the new filter aren't deep enough to reach the pre-drilled intake and return holes in the hood of my tank.
I thought the simplest way to reach them would be 4 x 90 degree elbow joints (2 intake, 2 return). Obviously, the intent in keeping the 16mm diameter is so I can hook it up to the Eheim hoses. I also didn't want to mess about with different diameters incase I cause back pressure & bugger the pump up, or don't get enough pressure to lift the water to the desired height.
Hope this make sense!
Oh, P.S. I've tried flexible pipes but the turns are too tight, and it just ends up tipping the original trickle filter housing off the back of the aquarium!
Having tried B&Q, Buildbase, Focus, and also having spent a rather frustrating day scouring the net, does anybody know any good online shops that sell 16mm rigid PVC pipes and 90> elbow joints in the same diameter?
Did anybody catch Bill Oddie last night on about American Wildlife? They have a Snailhawk over there that feeds pretty much exclusively on Apple Snails in the Florida everglades... There were LOTS of empty snail shells!
I was looking at the impeller design on my external filter yesterday and couldn't help noticing it was exactly the same (although larger) as the one I used to have in a small internal Fluval years ago. Basically, a plastic propeller with flat blades. And the thought occurred to me (manufacturing expenses aside) why are they flat bladed?
Virtually every other propeller has shaped and inclined blades; much like an aeroplane wing, which improves the water flow over the blades. Is there some technical reason why these wouldn't work in a filter? I would have thought that such a design would dramatically improve water flow, and power - thus increasing the maximum head capabilities as well?
Anyway just some idle pondering... anyone have any thoughts regarding this?
Does anybody know the actual percentage of CO2 added by these systems? I'm assuming the gas itself is pure (i.e. 100%) CO2 but what sort of increase does that equate to once it is injected? Sorry if this sounds; and probably is, a silly question!