Everytime I’ve had nitrite and then done a water change it’s gone sky high straight after. I was told not to do a water change between fish but I did, and this is the outcome.
I’m already seriously worried that one fish is eating most of the food. They do not eat quickly when the food is put in so cannot remove excess food. I have cut the food back to every 2 days but I am now seriously worried I’m starving them as they are juvenile wild fish used to grazing.
In complete desperation here, they are such beautiful fish, and this was a one off opportunity to get them, not seem them for years. Very worried I’m killing them.
Had 16 ember tetras and 3 corys with a U4 filter in a Roma 125. I now have 4 claros on their own in the same tank (embers and corys in different tank) where there’s nitrite showing at 0.5 on API liquid test and 1/1.5 on Nt Labs. One claro is adult sized, the other 3 are juveniles.
Last time I had a nitrite spike after treatment in a different tank I didn’t interfere and it fixed itself.
How long would you leave it before doing a water change? Would it be an idea to use a turkey baster to remove excess waste between changes?
I could get 1 oz of Fritz zyme turbo 700 tomorrow but don’t like adding these things as never had any success with bacteria, and the fish are wild caught so nervous it could have a worse effect than nitrite. This brand is 15 x the strength. However if I did decide to do this would I need to do a water change before? And if the nitrite levels stayed roughly the same (under 2) what size change would you do? I was thinking 20% max to not disturb the cycle further but curious what you’d do. It does need some nitrite to cycle through.
Part of the problem here is probably that they don’t eat the food when I put it in so it’s sitting there a while. Feeding bug bite bottlm feeder and courgette, tried an algae wafer but it clouded the water so will stick to courgette. I have repashy soilent green which I could also try them on as it’s supposed to not mess the water up.
The filter was fishless cycled before the embers and corys. They were in there 2 weeks with one nitrite reading of fractionally above zero but apart from that was fine.
I’m trying to workout how to show a video saved in google photos as I can’t get any clear photos.
In the meantime I’m going to get RO water at 10am as I won’t go in shops on a weekend except as they open. So want to get treatment then if I need to.
I have a platy with a white line on his top fin showing on both sides, he’s been hiding and swaying like he’s trying to get something off him. He’s old so didn’t think much of it until I looked closer yesterday.
Amm nitrite 0, ph 7.6, gh 10/11, kh 8, nitrate 25 last night (tap is nitrate 30, using 40% RO as tap water GH is 17).
9 orange corys, 16 ember tetras, 8 emerald eyespot rasbora, 1 bristlenose, 2 juvenile keyholes, 4 platys and some platy fry.
I added the embers and 3 more corys on tuesday with the intention of separating the keyholes into my 125 but the keyholes show no interest in any shoaling fish when spawning so I’ll keep an eye but don’t want to run 3 closed tanks. The embers and corys were quarantined for 2 weeks. Absolutely gutted I added healthy baby fish 😢 Everything had been fine for a couple of months so though I could.
U4 and U2 filters in Roma 200 (bout 160 litres allowing for decor/filter displacement).
(So the saga of my tank continues. This is now a closed tank as way too many issues over the last 6 months. Won’t be adding or removing fish apart from separating the platys to be in higher GH and using 50% RO in the main tank).
Will add link to google photos with video below, just need to figure it out but wanted to post in the meantime. I will ask for shop advice but usually only one guy there who knows his stuff and he works weekdays.
Edit, it’s the yellow and black platy in this video
The white line at the bottom of his tail has always been there and grew as he grew as a baby, but the white mark where his body meets his tail and the white line / parasite of some sort on his top fin are new. He could have had a run in with the keyholes as they are displaying spawning behaviour but he doesn’t usually, it’s the bristlenose and sometimes the corys the keyholes don’t like in their territory. They are generally very well behaved.
Thanks but this is not the issue, the tank was cycled, there isn’t and hasn’t ever been any ammonia. Nitrite is now 3-4ppm on tests I’ve just done, and water changes are not bringing it down.
So not sure what to do now. I’m concerned continually doing water changes is just going to crash the cycle further. This is caused by medicine, the tank is lightly stocked and the filter has been running for a long time with weekly 0 readings on nitrite and ammonia.
How do I get the nitrite out if water changes do not work? My fish are going to die - some look horrendous.
Carbon to remove meds - how long? Need to move asap
How long should I leave one of these in to remove meds?
I have completed 2 x dewormer rounds, need to do the third then using Sera Baktopur. Using 1 x carbon insert in U2 in 70l hospital tank. I do NOT usually have carbon in my filter as it kills my plants in main tank.
Done changes inbetween rounds of ndx but would now like to use this inbetween.
Also conscious I need to get the anti bac in there asap due to the nature of the issues, and the strength of anti bac required to treat the lab confirmed issue.
I don’t know how long carbon takes to work and know I need to remove before next med.
Also assuming I should remove the sand means I’ll have to take my centrepiece wood out so what’s the maximum weight that can go on the base of a roma 200? If I take everything out my paired keyholes will have line of sight across the tank so they’re going to chase other fish.
I’m assuming this has spread through the sand due to where it is on the cory so it can’t be helpful to put new sand in for now?