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N-HoneyGourami N-HoneyGourami
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  • Posted on: 14/2 15:07
Re: What is the Most Humane Way to Euthanize a Fish? #1
This was for a 2 inch tropical fish. You need to work out if the dosage differs for bigger fish, as it could be cruel if you get it wrong. I spoke to a fish vet and told him it was for a platy.

Pure Clove oil from any pharmacy. 1 litre of water 12 drops. Add drops and mix thoroughly then immediately add fish. Oil must be mixed. Add another 10-12 drops few mins later.

DO NOT add fish first before clove oil and make sure oil is not all separated as you add the fish

There is also a product called Aqua Sed. I’ve not used it as I didn’t want to wait overnight and risk a failed delivery

N-HoneyGourami N-HoneyGourami
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  • Posted on: 9/2 8:28
Skin/gill flukes? Or something else? #2
Run into a problem. Have uploaded a video of my platys behaviour. I’ve seen two platys doing this, one twice and one once over the last 10 days. Is it flashing?

I added some celebes rainbows mid December which upon research I think must be wild types. They weren’t labelled as such and I don’t think I’d have got them if they were. They were quarantined for 2 weeks. Could this be the cause as wild types are more likely to bring in these things? What should I treat with? Gdex? Sterazin? Do these medicines affect the filter as I had a cycle crash back in December?

I’ve got a new larger tank I want to combine two tanks into, but I’m holding off now as need to resolve this first.

Edit: I can’t see the video showing, let me know if you can’t see it. The platy is basically flicking himself against a rock.


N-HoneyGourami N-HoneyGourami
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  • Posted on: 28/1 8:07
Re: Whitespot - new fish #3
Thanks. How long after treatment is complete can I add the fish to the main tank?

I spoke to the shop. They are treating that system for whitespot and finrot. I did the new fish one day dose of Esha 2000 but there’s no sign of any finrot or bacterial infection.


N-HoneyGourami N-HoneyGourami
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  • Posted on: 28/1 7:50
Re: Upgrading - need to make a quick decision #4
Thanks. I am considering using a small amount of RO to bring my gh down to 14/15. Don’t want to bring it lower due to the celebes rainbows and platys. Sites seem to vary on keyhole parameters but seriously fish says up to 15. I got the larger tank :)

I’m going to rehome the celestial pearl danios and emerald eyspot rasbora. I found someone with a more appropriate setup for them, she has a large tank with just nano fish and uses 50% RO. Would definitely be better for them

N-HoneyGourami N-HoneyGourami
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  • Posted on: 26/1 21:01
Upgrading - need to make a quick decision #5

I’ve got a 125l with

5 celebes rainbows
2 keyholes (paired)
3 platys (2 adult 1 baby)
8 celestial pearl danios (rescued from a bucket, may rehome due to my water)

My water ph 7.8/8, gh 17, kh 11.

Considering an upgrade to 200l.

What else could I get that’s suitable for my water? Could I add more keyholes with a pair already? They are only about 2.5 inches, had them since 16 October.

Would like some corys and a bn pleco but conflicting information on suitable parameters online. Tank is 24C.

Open to other shy peaceful fish, nothing too boisterous or semi aggressive.

Need to make the decision about whether to upgrade first thing tomorrow morning.


N-HoneyGourami N-HoneyGourami
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  • Posted on: 26/1 20:23
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #6
Ich/whitespot lives in the tank, as well as on the fish so by moving the fish you’ll need to treat both tanks, and unfortunately the treatment you got isn’t likely to work. So your bigger tank is still infected with or without fish. If not treated the infection will come back when you put the fish back, changing water, cleaning etc won’t help.

A friend and I recently bought fish from the same shop in the same week, and both introduced whitespot into our tanks. I used Esha Exit and Esha 2000, gone in 3 days, no losses. She ran a 5 day treatment that didn’t work, then a 7 day treatment that didn't work. She only listened to me after she started losing fish. The ammonia and nitrite will be pretty toxic after 3 days so this is another reason to use Esha Exit and Esha 2000 as it’s shorter. If the spots are not gone on day 3 you can extend the day 2/3 dose of Exit for up to an additional 2 days. No need to extend 2000 unless they have the symptoms on the leaflet.

You’ll still need to treat both tanks as the disease lives in the tank, removing the fish or cleaning the tank does not remove the disease.

The treatment does not affect filter bacteria providing you do not overdose.

In the smaller tank the ammonia will build up much more quickly so it’s best to treat in the bigger tank as you cannot do any water changes during treatment.

Unfortunately if your filter has been without fish for a few hours the bacteria will be dying so you’ll be back to the very start of cycling. The fish waste breaks down to ammonia which is needed by the filter for the bacteria to develop. Without an ammonia source, be it fish or Dr Tim’s ammonia, the filter will not cycle. You cannot add ammonia with fish in the tank.

I’d honestly take the advice you’ve been given here, I come here for my advice as it’s always spot on. Do not take advice from shops. Try and find a better shop.

N-HoneyGourami N-HoneyGourami
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  • Posted on: 26/1 10:23
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #7
Please please please STOP BUYING FISH. You are going to kill them. Do a 80-90% water change and then treat with Esha Exit and 2000 at the same time as you’ve been told. Do not feed for 2-3 days then feed a TINY amount every 2 days. Maximum one flake per fish.

24/30 hours after last dose do another large water change. You cannot do water changes during treatment so you must remove as much ammonia and nitrite as possible first. Do NOT feed for at least 12 hours before water change.

You need to treat the whole tank and all fish, do not move them as ich / whitespot will stay in the tank.

Until your tank is fully cycled ie ammonia and nitrite are consistently zero for a week continue to feed a small amount every 2 days.

Do NOT get more fish until you have had zero ammonia and nitrite for a month.

When you do get more fish maximum 2/3 at a time. The bacteria in the filter take time to catch up with the bioload from more fish, you cannot just suddenly add loads at once, your cycle will crash again. In a tank that size you can’t have many fish anyway, so don’t just keep buying them when your cycle is complete.

Please take the time to learn about fishkeeping while you are fixing the issues you’ve created. Aquarium Coop is a good Youtube channel for understanding the basics. Put into google or youtube aquarium nitrogen cycle and keep watching or reading until you understand fully what you are aiming for. Then do the same with the words emergency fish in cycle.

You are keeping water and not fish. You cannot have healthy happy fish in toxic water!

Also please DO NOT take any further advice from shops, and do not get fish from Pets at Home. Find another shop, read reviews etc.

Once you’ve cycled this tank you need to fishless cycle a second tank to create a quarantine for new fish for a month so they don’t infect your whole tank. If you put infected fish in and keep repeatedly treating the same fish they’ll die eventually, the medicine is not good for them. The second time I used it I lost fish.

N-HoneyGourami N-HoneyGourami
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  • Posted on: 21/1 6:06
Fishless cycling #8

I’m cycling a U3 filter with ammonia. I have no seeded media (my display tank crashed in December, my lfs has whitespot and my friend has a snail problem including in the canister!).

What I’m struggling to work out is:

1. I am cycling in a 39l as that’s all I have but the filter will be going in a 70l with 9 x emerald eyespot rasbora and 8 x celestial pearl danios.

2. Because of the discrepancy in tank sizes should I up the 4ppm ammonia to form a cycle that can hold the 70l? If yes, what to? 6ppm? Will this be difficult with testing? I use NT Labs and Salifert. The U2 currently in the 70l will be removed and used in the 39l.

3. Then based on 1 and 2 how much Dr Tim’s ammonia do I need? I’d like to make sure I’m covered without going mad overbuying as things are going out of stock left right and centre.

According to Aq Advisor stocking calculator my 17 nano fish in the 70 litre are:

U2 63% stocked at 201% filtration

U3 63% stocked at 268% filtration.

In the 39l:

U2 113% stocked at 201% filtration

U3 113% stocked at 268% filteation

Would that translate somehow? If at 4ppm you’re meant to 50% stock then would 6ppm be better for 63% stock?

Brains a bit frazzled!


N-HoneyGourami N-HoneyGourami
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  • Posted on: 16/1 7:46
Re: Whitespot - new fish #9
There’s also a possibility the sick fish is pregnant, can treatment affect this?

Unfortunately I can’t see a way to isolate the sick fish except in a 39l without a filter. Daily water changes would take the medicine out so would be pointless anyway. I do have a heater but my spare filter is in use.


N-HoneyGourami N-HoneyGourami
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  • Posted on: 16/1 7:18
Whitespot - new fish #10
Got fish from the same shop as a friend last week and both now have whitespot.

I have Esha Exit but been reading and it says the treatment doesn’t work until the spots are present...only one fish has spots currently. So obviously I want to treat straight away but is it best to wait?

Also should I turn the temperature up? Some say it speeds up the life cycle of the disease? Do I want to do this? Tank is 25C, fish are two new platys, celestial pearl danios and emerald eyespot rasbora.

(As an aside I know about the GH issue and it will get fixed, I put the platys in there until I have two adult sized platys to add to the main tank with the male, didn’t want to add just one female initially as he’ll harass her too much).

Photo: blue fish has spots on tail and one fin underneath.


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