ok, avoid the lettuce. Lettuce is a terrestrial plant and marine fish cant digest the components of terrestrial plantsl and animals. This also means no chicken, pork, garlic or any of that other rubbish people sometimes advise.
The regal unlike many other tangs is mainly carnivorous so needs a high protein diet. Algae based food doesn't really do it for them. I found mine did particularly well by feeding frozen marine foods and vitamin enriched gel foods (like brine shrimp, mysis, the marine quartet/mix and especially krill) every other day.
Keep a close eye on him and prep a quarantine tank because if it is white spot you'll need to move quickly to save them.
I've had latterite in my tank for several years now and the latterite is still granular and doesn't cloud the water. Then again I had a tank with mud as a substrate and the water in that one was clear too (after the initial 6 months)
Yes you can grow plants without a planting substrate but you will be limiting the species and your success levels somewhat. You may find you become more reliant on root tablets or have to stick to plants that root to wood or rocks.
It's a bit late but someone should have told you these backgrounds needs to be siliconed in place so no water or fish can get behind. No need to go mad, just a bead of aquarium silicone all the way round then push against the glass and keep in place for 48 hours while the silicone dries. I know that won't help you much now but perhaps next time, or if someone else is reading this...
For now there is really only one way I know of to deal with this for certain. Drain the tank down to about 4" depth, this should make the fish easier to catch and place in a big storage container (try Wickes, Asda or equivalent) or oversized bucket with the original tank water and filter. This temporary home for the fish will allow you to properly drain and clean the tank then fix the background in place properly. Make sure you give the aquarium sealant enough time to fully cure before putting the water back in.
Sorry, I have a very good idea how much of a complete pain in the backside something like this is but I can't think of any other way you can be sure of avoiding a repeat problem further down the line. Let us know how you get on.
The Juwel filter is not really well suited to a marine setup. Many people use juwel tanks for marine because they're good quality cheap tanks and when you take out the filter, add a sump, put lighting over it and make all the other adjustments you can end up with a very nice set up.
You may find that by the time you've added the required flow and lighting it just isn't worth buying a juwel over a 180L marine tank that is designed for purpose. Not that it wouldn't work it's just that from experience I'd expect it to work out more expensive and much more troublesome in the long term.
Why no skimmer? How will you deal with excess proteins and nutrients removal? I don't think the water changes alone will be enough.
Can you offer any information as to the material, manufacturer, how it works, safety or lab testing? Anything really to elaborate on what sound like rather ambitious claims.
Dear Mr. ******, It is Silver, which is known in many situations to have a strong antibacterial effect.
It is absolutely safe with fish, and it does work, as we use it in our Nursery in some dozens of our Tanks
More than that for proprietary reasons am not prepared to say
So basically it is silver and it does work. Which I suppose leaves you with the choice of whether you believe him enough to take a punt or remain sceptical. I have replied and asked him if the antibacterial effects will extend to killing the Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira bacteria.
mel1of4 wrote: TEST RESULTS for the outdoor pond Ammonia = 0 Nitrite = 0 Nitrate = 0 phosphates = 0 pH = 7.7 GH = 60 KH = 80 it seems I have 4000g of slightly soft slightly alkaline distilled water!!
whats interesting is that my tap water is pH7.0 and has 5ppm phosphates
I mentioned that I have made a nursery pond with a cattle drinker. This fills with rain and if levels demand tap water. the tests here show phospate of 1ppm (makes sense as the rain has diluted the tap water) but a pH of 8.8 !! (at least as this is the highest reading from a high range test - it could be even higher) What could have caused such alkalinity?
I attach some snaps of the sorry plants. ALso one of the whole pond which is 50% covered with PVC sheeting to reduce light. Few weeks ago the water cleared - is this because of the lack of light killed the algae - or did they use up all the phosphate then die? If the water is this sterile what have the fish survived on? they have grown 2" over the winter without any food from me.
look forward to your comments
Hi, Sorry I've not been on in the few days but at least it looks like you've made some progress. With regards to the test results it appears that you have very little remaining nutrients in the water. The alkalinity could be explained by various chemicals entering the water, possibly leaching from the pots or washing in with rain water - off a roof, painted fence or concrete patio for example.
Tap water straight from the tap will often have temporary adjusters to get the PH close to 7.0 for drinking. Leave it 24 hours on a windowsill and then see what it is. The high phosphates in the tap water are not uncommon and will cause algae growth if left unchecked but rain water will have diluted that in the pond as you said.
I'd assume the fish are surviving on the food you add plus the odd insect that falls in. They wont be worried about the current water softness, the ph or the nutrient levels. Although if the KH or GH drop much more it could be a problem. You could probably feed them a little more as the extra waste will add to the plants nutrients. Ideally you'd want to maintain 5 or 10ppm nitrate and a trace of Phosphate.
PS. Pictures only attach 1 per post, if you want to add more that one image per post you need to use the image manager button.