I'm always reluctant to offer health advice on the basis of seeing a picture but to be honest he looks pretty healthy to me.
As fcmf mentioned, if there are white spots on his gills and on the front of his fins this is perfectly normal for a male fish - these are "breeding tubercles".
White spot are much smaller spots (pin-head size) and basically look like your fish has been sprinkled with salt and you would need to get in very close with your camera for me to see that - best place to look is on the tail fin, can you see any white spots on there?
Whats his behaviour like generally? Is he lethargic? Is he off his food? Is he "flashing", i.e darting around the tank / trying to rub himself on the gravel or ornaments?
Yes, I always buy online but that?s really because of a price / convenience perspective ? I live in a small village with no aquatic stores so easier to order online really rather than drive out into a city.
In my opinion although stores will often stock the food you want you will find it in relatively low quantities for a high price.
Ebay is great for buying fish food, fantastic selection of almost any fish food you can think of and often sold by sellers with little or no overheads meaning they sell at a low price ? they often despatch pretty quick too!
I personally avoid flakes as I keep large-bodied fancies and gulping at the surface can cause swimbladder / buoyancy issues for them.
I feed peas yes, no more than 1 each per fish ideally (although obviously it's hard to feed them individually but that's a general guideline). Cook them first, I put them in a cup and give them a 1-2 min blast in the microwave, de-shell them by pinching out the soft contents and then squish them slightly and drop them in ensuring the peas have cooled down first, they'll love them.
As for other food, I feed Hikari fancy goldfish pellets (sinking variety) as well as frozen food such as brineshrimp, daphia, krill, vegetable mix & turkey heart.
I also feed the repashy gel food and those tablets you can stick on the side - I feed quite a varied diet!
I have a black oranda which suffers terribly from buoyancy issues related to feeding so I now feed a much higher fibre diet to help his digestion.
I think long-term it will simply be a case of me feeding them all peas and veg 80% of the time with the occasional Hikari / frozen food / repashy treat with a few days in-between to avoid any blockages for the Black Oranda ? obviously it simply isn?t practical to either remove him from the tank or put in some sort of divider at every feeding time.
The other 7 fancies are relatively slender by comparison so this probably explains why they can gobble up anything and everything and suffer no ill effects whatsoever whereas he is noticeably more rotund.
The others may not like it much but they?re suddenly going to get a lot more vegetarian!
Well it took a little while for the Parazin to arrive but it finally arrived Thursday and I dosed the tank that night.
I used 5 tablets which treats a volume of approx. 575 litres which is prob about the right volume of the tank once displacement has been taken into account. I dissolved the tablets as best I could in a bucket (was stirring for over 20 minutes) but there was still some powdery residue that wouldn't dissolve.
Do you have any experience with Parazin? Do you know how long it normally takes before the lice begin dying off?
Looked at the fish this morning and the little green blighters are still happily hitching a ride on a couple of the fish and don't seem adversely affected by the medication - I'm probably too impatient though!
I woke up on Saturday morning and felt completely exasperated at still seeing him barrel-rolling and struggling to swim, he has been exhausted lately trying to swim properly and it?s been getting me down seeing him that way.
So I took him out of the tank and placed him in a container and fed him 3 crushed (skinless) green peas, fed the other fish as normal in the tank, after he had finished eating I put him back in to avoid stressing him out too much. I did that in the evening as well and same twice again on Sunday, he wasn?t too impressed with being fished out of the tank twice a day but it was for his own good.
This morning I woke up to find up to find him swimming around the tank happily, a few wobbles here and there but 100% better than he was 48hrs ago, I?m really pleased.
So overall I think he must be VERY susceptible to bloat issues when it comes to food, I?m going to have to keep him on a majority veggie diet to keep him in check with the occasional treat of Hikari / live foods.
The only other reason I can fathom as to his issues could be related to the height of my tank.
The tank is 60" wide, 20" deep and 30" high which from what I gather can be regarded as being a bit too deep for fancies with their heavy, rounded bodies.
The reason the other fish are fine could be because the majority of them were raised in ponds, this is certainly what Star Fisheries told me and until I had them they had never even come close to a fish tank before - being raised in ponds they would naturally become accustomed to deep water.
I can only assume my black oranda has been raised in an aquarium all his life and so therefore isn't used to the deep water of my tank and this could be causing his buoyancy issues, this may also explain why his previous owner never had any issues with him (his tank appeared to be no more than 20" high from what I could see) and these issues only developed once I had him.
If anyone else could confirm / reject this idea I would be very welcome.
Yes could be genetic and he must be more sensitive to certain foods than the others but he is a few years old now, 6" in size - I contacted his previous owner (I bought him privately) and he told me he never had issues with buoyancy before.
Yep all my food is well soaked before feeding.
Tested the nitrates again using the API kit, did a water change about 6 days previously and again the nitrates showed up very low, certainly not above 20ppm - I then tested the nitrates from the tap and the colours look identical, strange.
I may have to feed him less frequently than the others although that could be tricky!
That's a really good shout from james15, ok it's not an "aquarium" but it would be a better option for the fish and would mean they are much more likely to thrive and less likely to suffer the ill effects of ammonia / nitrite poisoning.
Certainly a good short-term solution until you get a bigger tank - and you can keep the box for any other fish-tank related uses in the future.