LisaSimon LisaSimon
  • Just popping in
  • Just popping in
  • Posted on: 26/8 19:21
Re: Spray bar & water flow question #31
Thank you for the advice.

Re the jack Dempseys, I’m not sure what to do now that I have them; before choosing what fish to keep I read conflicting advice on the Internet about what would work therefore decided to take the advice from my local fish shop where I bought the tank, I was guided by them who told me these would be ok for my tank ☹️
In fact I’d hoped it would big enough for 3/4 cichlids and was surprised when they said I could put 6/9 in there.
They said to stick with 4 first for a week or so to let the filter build up then I could get some more.
My original plan was to have 3/4 cichlids, an algae eater and perhaps a few mollys.

Fishlady Fishlady
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Posted on: 26/8 18:32
Re: Reefer XL 425 Lighting #32
I'm afraid we don't have any marine keepers currently on the site so you may get an answer quicker elsewhere

Fishlady Fishlady
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Posted on: 26/8 18:07
Re: Spray bar & water flow question #33
Spray bars don't cause pressure on the pump so it's fine to use. Position it how you like, just let it disturb the water surface.

Just another point, but the tank is too small for those fish. A pair of Jack Dempseys need a tank at least 4ft long by 18 inches wide; if you have two males you'll need more space than that. To keep JDs with other cichlids like the firemouths you're looking at a 6 foot by 2 foot to maintain the peace when they all mature.

LisaSimon LisaSimon
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  • Just popping in
  • Posted on: 26/8 17:49
Spray bar & water flow question #34
New to fish keeping. I have a 30 gallon tank with a Superfish Aquaflow 300 internal filter.
I’m not sure what the best position is and whether or not to use the optional spray bar that comes with it.
The spray bar seems to reduce the noise but I’ve read it can put unnecessary pressure on the pump - is that true?
If I use it, is there a right or wrong way of directing the flow of water? Does there need to be bubbles on the surface?
Also, should I turn it up full or not?
I have two Jack Dempseys and two Firemouths and I read their natural habitat is slow moving water - does that mean I should turn the filter down?

Fishlady Fishlady
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Posted on: 26/8 15:01
Re: Beginner #35
When a range of temperatures/hardness is given, it's best to keep fish roughly in the middle of that range, not at the extremes (other than short term).

A lot of the information on the net is either incorrect or out of date (especially any American sites) so we usually recommend this site for fish profiles as it's very accurate and is kept up to date:

Matt90 Matt90
  • Just popping in
  • Just popping in
  • Posted on: 26/8 12:13
Re: Beginner #36
Hey! Thanks for getting back to me, which site are you using for their hardness? I have been using multiple sites and put together the following:

Zebra Nerite Snail
7.0-8.0 pH

Cherry Shrimp
6.5-8.0 pH

Sterbai Corydora
6.0-7.6 pH

Glowlight Tetra
5.5-7.5 pH

Harlequin Rasbora
6-7.8 pH

Golden & Normal Zebra Danio
6.5-8 pH

Male Platy
6.8-8 pH

Male Fantail Guppy
5.5-8.5 pH

Female Honey Gourami
6-7.5 pH

I have been advised not to put the sterbai cory or honey gourami into my 13.63dGH water as they won't survive longer than a year.

I was only getting the cory to add to the clean-up crew for any food that drops to the bottom of the tank (if cories are in the tank the substrate will be sand), although I think having the zebra nerite snails and red cherry shrimp should do a good enough job on their own while looking amazing.

I would definitely like to find a species of fish suitable for my tank that are easily identifiable so my wife & kids can name them, the species needs to be happy when kept as a pair and must not eat my shoaling fish, shrimp or snails (eating fry/eggs is acceptable to prevent overstocking, although it does sound horrible).

I haven't heard that harlequin rasbora need to be in soft water before, I'll carry on reading and hopefully identify a perfect balance of shoaling fish suited for the tank, plus a pair that will fit in nicely.

Many thanks,

cmw328i cmw328i
  • Marine Adviser
  • Marine  Adviser
  • Posted on: 26/8 11:50
Reefer XL 425 Lighting #37
Hi all,

I'm planning to return to fishkeeping in the next few years (will take some time to sort debt and save for system).

I'm looking at the Red Sea Reefer XL 425. I see that the deluxe option comes with two Red Sea ReefLED 90s. But I also notice that the Reefer 250 has the same thing. This suggests to me that two ReefLED 90s is probably insufficient for the XL 425. After all, it's practically twice the size of the 250 and running on the same lighting.

I like the single lens which eliminates any disco effect from multiple single LEDs of different colour spectra and I've seen very positive reviews on YouTube exploring the PAR ratings for the Red Sea lights.

So, my question is, should I purchase a 3rd ReefLED for a tank this size? I'd like to be able to keep any coral I want in it, including SPS. Alternatively, is there a different light that you'd suggest instead that wouldn't break the bank?

fcmf fcmf
  • Coldwater Adviser
  • Coldwater Adviser
  • Posted on: 25/8 15:55
Re: Beginner #38
It's always best if your proposed fish are in the middle of each species' softness/hardness range. The harlequin rasbora fish, while beautiful, unfortunately require softer water than you have - your water is harder than the range they can tolerate. The honey gourami (a better choice than the dwarf gourami which is prone to the iridovirus), sterbai cory and glowlights generally prefer soft water but your water does just fall within the upper range which they can tolerate (268ppm, 15 dH, 15dH respectively .v. your 243.27 ppm and 13.63 dH). The zebra danios, platies (maculatus rather than variatus, the latter requiring harder water than you have) and guppies would be ideal for your water hardness as it's in the middle of their range.

A few points, though:
* if you opt for cories - and the sterbais are gorgeous - then you'll need to consider sand rather than gravel substrate;
* take note of the temperature ranges e.g.: zebra danios, platies, guppies require lower temperatures and therefore would be better together; honey gourami, sterbai cory and glowlight tetras require warmer temperatures and therefore would be better together.

Hope that helps.

Matt90 Matt90
  • Just popping in
  • Just popping in
  • Posted on: 25/8 8:06
Re: Beginner #39
Hi again, thanks for your advice! I've done some reading for breeds suitable for a community setup with 13.63 degrees german hardness.

I am not wanting to overstock my Jewel Trigon 350, those listed below are just potential ideas - I don't have to get them all... although maybe I could if it works haha. I was originally only looking at 2 breeds of shoaling/schooling fish and 1 breed for a pair that my wife could name so happy either way.

7-9x Zebra Nerite Snails
10x Red Cherry Shrimps
4x Sterbai Corydoras

7x Glowlight Tetras
7x Harlequin Rasboras
7x Zebra Danios (4 standard, 3 golden)
7x Male Platies
7x Male Guppies

Nameable Pair:
2x Female Honey Gouramis

Any thoughts on the above species? Any that are not compatible with the others? Many thanks in advance!

Fishlady Fishlady
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Posted on: 23/8 10:52
Re: Why can't I prime my new canister filter? #40
There's no set timescale as each tank is different, but typically it takes 2-3 weeks for nitrite to appear :)

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