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TetraLinz TetraLinz
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  • Posted on: 1/8/2012 11:47
Re: First Ever Aquarium - Quarantine Question #11
Hi Skulk. Welcome to FK

If you keep the QT filter running in the main tank, you won't need to carry out a fishless cycle, no. However, to save a little on your electricity bill, you could also just keep the media (the stuff inside the filter) in the main filter and take some out when you're ready to get your second lot of fish.

Well done on doing your research first

Any more questions, just ask
T.L
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TetraLinz TetraLinz
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  • Posted on: 26/7/2012 13:05
Re: Back like the preverbial bad penny #12
Fancy Fella (good name for him ) is fine. He's still giving the commons a run for the money. They actually appear to be pretty close - the 4 of them, so I think maybe BM may be lonely without them.

Still looking around for a bigger tank for him, although tbh, it had crossed my mind to "swap" the tropical fish out of the 40gal, into the 23gal, and move him over to the 40gal.
T.L
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TetraLinz TetraLinz
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  • Posted on: 26/7/2012 5:44
Re: Back like the preverbial bad penny #13
Update:

Been talking to my colleague about the commons moving into her brother's pond, and all going well (by that I mean if work doesn't get in the way), we've arranged a relay transfer for Monday coming.
T.L
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TetraLinz TetraLinz
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  • Posted on: 23/7/2012 9:38
Re: Cycling help. #14
Hi aimee

You're on the right track BUT . . . If you're using the fish food method, the best way to do so is to get a pop sock and add a handful of flakes to it. Tie it in the water near the outflow of the filter/s and leave it there til ammonia reads 2ppm, then remove, allow ammonia to drop a little, and basically repeat with a fresh ammonia ball.

Alternatively, you could try to get bottled ammonia from the cleaning aisle in the likes of Homebase or Boots (IIRC).

The cycle will take forever if you're just adding a bit of food everyday
T.L
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TetraLinz TetraLinz
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  • Posted on: 22/7/2012 18:35
Re: Poorly goldfish help asap please #15
Quote:

galaxy2008 wrote:
Hi

I say common goldfish - I actually don't know what they are but they were bought from a reputable pet shop who has been in the area since I was a child (34 yrs ago)
(according to pets at home my results are)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 10-20 ppm
pH: 7.6.

600L/H Aquarium Internal Fish Tank Filter Pump All Pond Solutions 600IF - thought it would be ok got it off Amazon.

Partial water change done every 2-3 days varying between 20/30% and then a 50% once a week and full change every two- three. Always use a dechlorinator - gold tap safe.

Tank was'nt cycled prior to getting these two but they went into the same water they came in as I asked for extra bags of their water from the shop so it wasn't a shock to their system.

Had planned on getting a 20 gallon (ish) tank for the two of them however if they can't be together I will get another 10gallon one for the gold one if it survives.

The pet shop said that an additional oxygen tablet wouldn't hurt the fish


You say the pet shop told you the readings were ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate 10-20ppm. Did they actually write the results down for you, or did they just tell you it's fine? Ideally, it's best if you can have your own test kit, such as API master test kit.

Carrying out a full water change is unnecessary and can shock a fish, which in turn, can prove fatal. The most you'd need to change, realistically, is 50% and even then, I'd say that should only ever be in emergencies.

10gal is far too small for a common goldy They grow to around 1ft in length and really are pond fish. Even fancies should be in a 30gal tank (and that's for 1). Sorry, I know it's probably not what you want to hear.

How long has the tank been set up?
T.L
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TetraLinz TetraLinz
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  • Posted on: 22/7/2012 15:43
Re: ammonia level #16
Ah! I see In a cycling tank, ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels sometimes do flutuate, even if everything else remains the same, so a 0.25 rise in ammonia is something I'd consider to be within the norm.
T.L
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TetraLinz TetraLinz
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  • Posted on: 22/7/2012 14:49
Re: ammonia level #17
The Prime will be protecting the fish from the toxins, but obviously, as you know yourself, we'll need to find out why.

Could you post the latest results?
Any new additions to the tank recently? If so, what are they?
How long has the tank been set up? (Sorry, you've probably gone through this already).
When was the last water change? Did you use the Prime then, or some other dechloronator.
T.L
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TetraLinz TetraLinz
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  • Posted on: 20/7/2012 13:02
Re: Lost eye!!! #18
Quote:

GoldTigz wrote:
That's a relief.
I'll do that straight away, and make sure to keep the ammonia and nitrates low as you said.

Yeah, at the moment I'm trying to find one that's suitable, but not massively expensive.

None at all, that's why I'm worried!
I don't think there's anything sharp in the tank...
They sometimes chase each-other around, but they're never aggressive.


It could be that the fish are attacking when you're not watching the tank. Any chance you could separate the oranda off for treatment?
T.L
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TetraLinz TetraLinz
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  • Posted on: 20/7/2012 12:56
Re: Really bad algae problem :( #19
How long do you keep the lights on for?
T.L
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TetraLinz TetraLinz
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  • Posted on: 20/7/2012 12:53
Re: Lost eye!!! #20
First of all, try not to panic. He'll be fine with only 1 eye. A mild antibacterial such as Melafix or a Mela/Pimafix combo should protect the eye and keep infection at bay until the wound closes over.

Apart from that, basic tank mainenance is now even more of a priority - ammonia and nitrite need to be kept at 0ppm, nitrate as low as possible (I know, that won't be easy with 3 goldies in a 60ltr) but definately under 40ppm.

Obviously you know you need a bigger tank.

Any idea how the oranda lost the eye?
T.L
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