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Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 27/1 20:34
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #11
Should I be testing the water in the little tank? I'm double dosing it with prime, but that would still show up in the test kit, wouldn't it?

Thank you so much for the help!

My boy seems frustrated to be in the little tank but he seems well otherwise, still no spots or anything visible on him, but this darting around and skittish behaviour just seems so off.. I think its the girl doing it and he follows along as a good schooling fish, and that its freaking him out, but he doesn't instigate it. I'm worried that they are hurting themselves. I can hear them whacking themselves against the tank walls occasionally its very alarming.

Could it be flukes? Is it possible that its both flukes and ich, can I treat for both? I can definitely see the little white spots on the tail fin of the girl.. I'll try to get a picture, but as I'm reading and researching, everything says they should be quiet, lethargic, not buzzing around like maniacs. I did see the girl trying to scratch herself at the bottom of the tank too.

I effed up getting the King British medication I think... I'm just trying to be decisive and take action before I loose them :( I think the medication is good, but for the life of me I can't find anything about using it in combination with something against flukes. King British doesn't seem to have anything that treats flukes most of their stuff seems to be against fungus and bacteria, not parasites.

Is it too late to change course and get the Esha Exit and Esha Gdex, it says on their website that those 2 can be used in combination against ich and flukes. If its not too late, how do I go about it?

I could practically do a complete water change as my tank is not cycled... and keep dosing prime in the new water, and add the carbon back in, leave for a day or 2 then start the new meds?

Or should I just wait, complete the King British treatment then do something about the flukes? What could I do to calm them down in the meantime?

I am most definitely obsessing about them, but its just so bad to watch them suffer :(


Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 26/1 21:56
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #12
In the big tank, the filter is running, ammonia is around 1ppm, so there should be something for the bacteria to 'eat' and I've tossed some fish food in it to have that break down into ammonia too.
I spent a good few hours researching some more. I also had white cloudy water in my tank after filling it up, for a couple of days. It was Christal clear when I filled it up, then suddenly went white cloudy and then the cloud cleared. Apparently that's a bacteria bloom? So I have some hopes for that big tank cycling.

Little tank had a 50% water change which 50% I dosed with the correct amount of medicine, and Prime, which arrived today. The fish are very active.. in fact I am a bit worried about them because they seem stressed, darting around every time I go near them, which they started a few days ago, it was one of the reasons why I suspected something is up, but they were better this morning. I have covered a part of the tank with a white sheet so they see less movement around. Lights are off but the bubbler has to be on because of the filter and because they need air, with the medicated water not being able to hold it very well and ich causing issues with their gills, but they are more settled when the bubbler is off.
Should I feed them tomorrow? They haven't eaten in like 3 days now. Feed them peas, light full of vitamins?


Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 26/1 17:17
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #13
Okay this article: https://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_88/white-spot.htm says if I just leave the tank without fish in it for min. 2 weeks (It has a heater now, and I cranked up the temp when I thought I was getting ready for Cherry Barbs) the parasites will die off as there will be no host... which makes sense really, so my big tank should be okay to cycle in peace and I can hopefully do better managing the water in the little one...


Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 26/1 15:17
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #14
Okay, so I DID NOT get more fish. Prime is on its way, but I did move them to the small tank, it seemed like the best thing to do as I didn't know about the bacteria being harmed or not by the medication. I have bought King British white spot control which I have read good reviews about. Some have used it twice and it can be used preventatively apparently, and I'd like to think so, because I don't think my other fish has it (yet).

I have read the article that fishlady linked in, which says if I have high nitrates (which I do) I shouldn't shock my fish with a massive water change, so I have put them in the small tank with about 40% of the water in it from the big tank, and I added 10% fresh (dechlorinated with Aquasafe) every hour, hour and a half, until the tank was full.

The fish in question with the 3 tiniest spots on 1 fin, had only been in the big tank for 3 days, and I can't see anything on my other fish (only have the 2 of them) but they are both in the medicated water. Any chance it didn't spread to the tank yet?

I'm monitoring the water in both tanks doing water changes and medicating my small tank and leaving the big one to cycle. In my big one, Ammonia had now climbed to 1ppm and Nitrites are still maxed out based on my kit. (I have an API freshwater master test kit.) Nitrates had slightly decreased, probably because I have performed a 20(ish) percent water change when I took some water out for the medicated tank.

So this is a bit of a strange one for me.. ammonia climbs, and in the mean time I have high nitrites. I have just tested my tap water, which came back with 0 so its not from there.
I thought I'm supposed to be having Ammonia and no Nitrites, then Ammonia declining and Nitrites climbing then Nitrites declining and Nitrates climbing..
Could this be because I have some bacteria already, there is just not enough of them?
Do I just wait? Or should I increase the Ammonia?
https://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles ... hless-cycling-article.htm
This says push it up to 3ppm, but my tank seems to be in a different cycle (stage...)

I have put off buying fish until I have a more suitable home for them, but I feel quite bad for my 2 Rosys they are schooling fish, they need more friends and my boy had been nipping the fins of my rosy girl before all things went south and I put them in the big tank thinking it will be fine if I put the old filters in it (clearly it wasn't) in about 24hrs I lost the girl to a swim bladder infection which I couldn't identify and thought was just lethargy from not having space, see: - see: https://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/modules/ ... c_id=41739&post_id=351689 - then bought the new girl from Pets at home and now I'm worried he will start nipping this girl too if the itch doesn't take them both.

I just wish I could do more for them, but it seems the more I try to do and help the worse I'm making things. :( The family who owns the house and the fish had already killed some but keeps buying them for the children, so I was hoping I can set things up for them properly before they get back, and end the fish killings, but it seems I'm part of the problem, not the solution :(


Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 25/1 6:18
Re: Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #15
This is super useful! Thank you very much!

I decided to delay getting more fish. I have found some little white spots on the fins of the new fish I bought a couple of days ago from Pets at Home. She also has some large white patches on her body, so I am not quite sure if its fungus or itch or perhaps both.

Again, not sure what to do...

I'm thinking to move them in the little tank to treat for itch and in the mean time leave my big tank to cycle, since it has ammonia already I imagine I shouldn't need to introduce any more... and I can do 50% changes in the little tank easier and more cost-effectively, to keep ammonia at bay there.. and it wouldn't matter that its not cycled because it will be medicated so the bacteria would die anyway...

More importantly, I read that itch can spread to the tank itself, so if its already in my big tank, shouldn't I treat them in the big tank, in which case I shouldn't do it while cycling but then if I medicate after cycling the meds will kill the bacteria and I'll have to cycle again?

This is not very clear...


Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 24/1 16:09
Very high Nitrite (2-5ppm) and Nitrate (Above 80-160ppm), 0.5 Ammonia - Fish in the tank #16
Hi,

I recently upgraded from a little 15l tank to a 60l+ one, and I have a new filter with new media in the big tank but I moved over the filter media from the little tank as well, and put the sponge right beside the new filter's intake.. hoping the bacteria will colonise the new filter, but in any case the water passes through the mature filter as well..

I have been monitoring water quality and it had quickly started to get worse in the last couple of days. A day before yesterday I could see the ammonia climbing a little but from yesterday to today it doubled, and the nitrite and nitrate levels had jumped right up too. 0.5 Ammonia, Nitrite 2-5ppm and Nitrate 80-160ppm from todays reading.
I have 2 Rosy Barbs, and they don't show any signs of discomfort, in fact they seem more active and playful in the last couple of days than before (They moved into the tank on Tuesday) I will start doing some water changes.. should I do a 50% today and then do 25% everyday / every other day depending on water quality?

At the moment I only have the 2 Rosy-s but I wanted to get a couple more of them and some different barbs this week, as they are schooling fish and my boy is known to nip fins not having enough friends to play with... should I hold off with increasing the bio-load until the tank stabilises?
I live alone and have to ask a friend to come to the LFS with me to get some more fish.. so whenever I end up buying more fish it will be 'in the bulk'... currently planning 2 more Rosys, 5-6 Cherry Barbs, and 4 Checker or Ruby Barbs whichever I like more when I see them in real life..

I could move my Rosys back in the 15L tank but that will also not be cycled so I'm not sure how that would help... and if I hold off with getting more fish then 1 I will keep them in solitude for longer which is not fair on them, 2 I will potentially have to put them through 2 cycles, which again I don't think is fair..

Any advice?

I am quite upset about this situation I have been entrusted to look after 1 Rosy while the owners are away (I'm house sitting/renting for 6 months) and wanting to do it properly I have now spent 100£ + getting a new tank and more fish and, been learning A LOT about how to care for fish but I sort of started with a handicap. Once upon a time when I'll have my own place and my own tank I will do it right, and get the tank and fishless cycle it and make sure its all properly set up before I get the fish, but I don't know anyone nearby who I trust, to look after these 2 while the tank cycles, so unfair and sad as it is, I'm not sure what could I do besides monitoring them and doing water changes to reduce the harmful substances in their tank...

I will contact my LFS, see if they could put them up for a little while... but to be completely honest I am a little untrusting towards them... When I bought my boy from them they told me its impossible to tell Female and Male Rosy Barbs apart and that the ones in the tank are fully grown, both of which I now know to be false.. so I'm not sure I'd be comfortable leaving them with those people.

Sorry for the long post... Lots of thoughts and I'm just a beginner trying to do the right thing.


Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 22/1 18:01
Re: Rosy Barb loosing colour and inactive, other one is healthy #17
Thank you for your help anyway!

Now in hindsight I can see a couple of things I could have done better, and I thought I would summarise some here in case it helps someone else!

1 - In my original post I mentioned that she got stuck in the bubbler tube while it was off. I had to turn on the bubbles to get her out, so I think that could have been the time she contracted this infection! If anything like that happens with your fish, keep a close eye on it and don't doubt yourself when you think something is wrong. Have a look if you can give them any sort of medication, that would not harm them if they are healthy but would help if they are not!

2 - Don't put your fish in a tank you don't know, if you think they are unwell. This was my biggest mistake. I really thought something is wrong and she is not lethargic just because of the small tank, but I decided to put her over to the big tank anyway, for 2 reasons, 1 what if its really just lethargy, and 2 so the boy wouldn't be alone. Again YOU are there YOU know your fish, don't doubt yourself even if you are new to this... better to be worry pants than loose a fish you cared for. :(
I have since made the conclusion that the filter in the new tank is too strong for them, as they are only little. So she was unwell, had a big stress and change being put in a new tank, and then she was 'blown' round and round for god knows how long on her side, because the filter was too strong and she was weak. Which unsurprisingly ended her life.. I don't know if fish feel fear, but they definitely have a survival instinct.. this was really not a nice / humane way to go :( and I do blame myself for it.

3 - Again if there is something you can give them that might help, and not only it doesn't harm them, they even like it, make sure you add it to their diet! I think besides a possible bacterial infection my fish had constipation from the food they were having, I was looking at changing it because she had problems before when she's gone a little quieter than normal, so I had to isolate her. The connection I did not make was that I also gave her peas every time she was in isolation, because I read that it could be constipation and giving them peas might help.. and it did every time... and me, the idiot, still didn't add it to their diet regularly... to the point that now I am thinking about it.... in one of my posts I mentioned that I isolated her in case the problem is that she is getting too much attention from the boy, and I gave her (both of them) peas, and that was the time I also saw her having see through stringy poo... I even wondered that, that doesn't look normal but didn't know enough to put 2 and 2 together.

So I think I lost her to a bacterial infection of the swim bladder, that was worsened by constipation, so she got a little better when the constipation was resolved (when I isolated her and gave her peas) then it slowly developed and got worse and in the mean time, its likely that she had constipation issues again, then finally she was put under LOTS of stress, which just ended her, in her state, I do think if I haven't moved her over she would have survived for a few more days. Long enough for the medication to start working... or at least to try the medication.

I would like to thank everyone who read through this thread and tried to help! There was only so much you could do from the information I gave, I could have done better on that front too!

Don't make the same mistakes people!


Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 21/1 19:01
Re: Rosy Barb loosing colour and inactive, other one is healthy #18
She is gone :( By the time I got home she was on her side floating but still breathing.. by the time I got home from the shop with some swim bladder treatment as well, she was gone..


Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 21/1 12:33
Re: Rosy Barb loosing colour and inactive, other one is healthy #19
I haven't seen her poop for a while, (I wish I could watch them all day but I work in an office) but I have seen her have white / see though stringy poo some days ago!

I haven't fed them for a couple of days, because she was looking poorly and I read that its better to not feed them when they are unwell. I did feed them today so the boy gets to eat a bit.. She did eat a few bits and was interested (left her 'seat' from beside the filter for it) in food, but yeah the current took a lot of the food away and while the boy went after it and then dove in to pick up the bits that sank, the girl just went back to her spot after.


Lil2606 Lil2606
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  • Posted on: 21/1 8:59
Re: Rosy Barb loosing colour and inactive, other one is healthy #20
Okay they are in the big tank now, and the girl in question had been swimming around a bit more! She is in the top layers and goes to the surface often.. looks like she is up there for air, but the other one doesn't do that and the filter breaks the top surface, so I (from what I read so far) the water should be oxygenated okay...

She then started to do this thing where she gets herself sucked up against the filter and just stays there, not moving... she can come away, and she did come away from it when I fed them but she went back twice this morning... Then she went to the bottom of the tank and again, just sat there..

To me it seems like she just sinks if she is not swimming around, and that she is weak / tired and doesn't want to swim... the new filter has a bit of a current and she can swim against it, she did it a couple of times, but it does just wash her away most of the time.

I don't know how to help her and its so upsetting.

The boy is fine and seem to enjoy the big tank. Swims around explores, and every now and then nips at my girl. I'm going to my LFS later today to get them some more friends so, hopefully he will leave my poorly girl alone... is there anything I could pick up? Some medication or vitamins or something....

I can now isolate the girl in the little 15l tank if I need to give her meds or anything..



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