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Candle321 Candle321
  • Not too shy to talk
  • Not too shy to talk
  • Posted on: Yesterday 10:41
Re: Cycling question #11
So dosed the tank last night to 2ppm, just popped back (16 hrs later)and ammonia 0.5ppm and nitrite 0.5ppm.

I'm going to try and get again tonight but if I can't does this look like the tank is already cycled? Am I right in thinking at the 24 hour point, if the ammonia is 0, the nitrite is 0 and nitrates are present then it is cycled?


fcmf fcmf
  • Coldwater Adviser
  • Coldwater Adviser
  • Posted on: 20/10 20:30
Re: Cycling question #12
Tank stock would indeed be limited to either one betta or else snails and shrimp. Nerite snails come in various lovely colours, as do shrimp.


Fishlady Fishlady
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Posted on: 20/10 8:11
Re: Cycling question #13
Good plan except don't feed with fish food. Fish food is designed to resist breaking down so it doesn't pollute the tank, which means it will take time to produce any ammonia and in that time the beneficial bacteria in your media may have died off. Instead, dose with a small amount of ammonia (to 2ppm) and test after 24 hours for ammonia and nitrite. You may well find the tank is instantly cycled and ready to go. If not, then continue a fishless cycle with ammonia.


Candle321 Candle321
  • Not too shy to talk
  • Not too shy to talk
  • Posted on: 20/10 7:53
Cycling question #14
So a friend has asked for advice on setting up a 25 litre (5gal) tank for his kids. After using my new found knowledge to advise, I'm confident they won't now just fill it with water and plop a goldfish in!

So what I was planning on doing was providing them with the following from our tank:

Sand substrate, enough to lightly cover the base of the 24l
Three small Marimo moss balls
Small piece of bog wood
Ceramic noodles and Seachem Matrix from our filter
Seachem Prime
Seachem Stability

The new tank is TINY compared to our 350 litre. My filter is packed out (ready to increase stocking, that will be on hold now!) with media so I can easily spare enough to fill the tiny HOB filter. Our aqadvisor capacity is such that I'm not concerned about a mini cycle in our tank my removing the above items.

They know the tank needs to be cycled before stocking, if they feed it with fish food how long do folks think it will take?

I do have all my test kits on hand to monitor it for them and can dose pure ammonia if needed. It will be unheated so I wondered if this may slow it some.

Somebody else advised them to use Evolution Aqua Pure Aquarium Balls? I've seen these at the lfs but thought they were a water clearing conditioner?

This will certainly be a lesson in patience for the kids! As for tank stock, one betta? Snails?


SiMorris SiMorris
  • Just popping in
  • Just popping in
  • Posted on: 19/10 13:21
Re: Blue-Green Algae (Cyanobacteria - please help #15
Thanks, I'll give that a go. Do you think the increased water change was getting rid of nitrates too much? So I need to get rid of all nutrients by water change and then replace the nitrates for plants. I'll give that a go, meanwhile I'll get some treatment. Might just give ths PureBlue I saw on eBay a go.


Fishlady Fishlady
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Posted on: 19/10 12:58
Re: Blue-Green Algae (Cyanobacteria - please help #16
You're not overstocked. It may be that your nitrate is too low. That's been the cause in my tank. Where there is too little nitrate in the tank, plants can't grow effectively (hence the die-off), but cyanobacteria can take hold because it can fix atmospheric nitrogen and make use of the other nutrients in the water. This may be why you can clear it with treatments, but it keeps coming back. I would repeat the treatment (either the balck out or Chemiclean/Ultra-Life. Suck out all the cyano you can see and then dose a plant fertiliser that includes nitrates and see if that stops it returning.


SiMorris SiMorris
  • Just popping in
  • Just popping in
  • Posted on: 19/10 12:15
Re: Blue-Green Algae (Cyanobacteria - please help #17
Readings seems to be ok, Ammonia and nitrite are zero, phosphate and nitrates are both low on API scale. Temp is the same as ever, nothing else as changed. Is there anything else I need to be testing?

The thing that foxed me most is that the system worked really well and was well established for a couple of years, lots of plants, a low fish stock and 2 weekly water change. The only thing I could think of that changed was a plant I bought just before and didn't think of quarantine it before hand. Less than a week later the problem started.

I have an external filter with 1000L/H pump, and in the filter there are 3 trays, one for foam mesh, one for carbon and one for Rawphos. Water goes through a U/V steriliser (that I added after the problem started, didn't help but I kept it going anyway). I've also since added a couple of powerheads to prevent any stagnant area.

Light wise just a couple of T5 that came with the aquarium, tubes have just been changed a few months back so not really old.

Fish wise I have half a dozen small tetra, a couple of guppies, a loaches, a platies and a dwarf gourami, now I've lost the guppies and the loaches since the problem started and have not restocked. So I don't think that's over stocked???

As far as substrate is concerned, mainly sand, a couple of pieces of drift wood and some rocks, and that's been the same since the beginning. Fair bit of plants and I don't add any fertiliser or anything for the plants routinely.

So a relatively low maintenance tank really, and hadn't needed to do much other than water and filter change and the odd bit of cleaning every so often.

Normally use tap water, treated obviously, for water change. When I test the tap water, nitrate and phosphate is minimum on API scale. Tried using RO water I bought from LFS for water change but gave up after a month, not making and difference and cost a fortune.

Now this green muck started destroying everything. A lot of the more delicate plants are dead, lost a few fish, and the tank looks more like a sewage treatment plant.

Is there something I'm missing? Already tried the UltraLife BlueGreen algae remover with no success, I might just give this PureBlue I saw on eBay a try, unless you think there's something else I could be doing first?


Fishlady Fishlady
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Posted on: 19/10 11:31
Re: Blue-Green Algae (Cyanobacteria - please help #18
If fish are dying there's something else in play here as bga shouldn't be causing fish deaths. What are your tests showing?


SiMorris SiMorris
  • Just popping in
  • Just popping in
  • Posted on: 19/10 10:28
Re: Blue-Green Algae (Cyanobacteria - please help #19
Hi, thanks for the info.

At the moment I'm keeping a lid on it by weekly 2 hrs cleanig routine bacause it grows bacxk so quickly I'm having to clean the tank weekly. Syphoning the substrates, peeling off what I can, then full filter and water change. Followed by episodes depression after watching more plants +/- fish dying. I hardly have the ligfhts on more than a few hrs a day now because it's just not pleasant to look at.

Did try Ultralife Blue green algae remover (which I beleive is same or similar to Chemiclean?) which only gave temprory releive.

Had a look on eBay and searched for blue green algae remover, hoping to find the erythromycin there, no luck, and have sionce ruled out the idea of using Erythromycin. But I noticed another remover other than UltraLife one. It's called PureBlue. Not seen it before but looks promising though, has anyone tried or know about it?


Fishlady Fishlady
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Tropical Moderator
  • Posted on: 19/10 8:42
Re: Blue-Green Algae (Cyanobacteria - please help #20
Hi

You won't find erythromycin in the UK as it's an anti-biotic and is prescription only. You might get a vet to prescribe it, but finding one who'd know the right dosage for this problem may be difficult. It does run the risk of killing your beneficial bacteria as well.

I've been fighting cyano in one of my tanks and what worked for me was to do a very large water change, syphoning out as much cyano as possible then dose with Boyd's Chemiclean (running a large airstone with this is essential). After 48 hours I did another large water change and syphoned any remaining cyano out followed by a second dose of Chemiclean and a 20% water change 48 hours later.



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