Hi
I'm a newbie to this site but am in need of emergency help for my poorly goldfish. I have two common goldfish in a 15gallon tank (I know not as big as it should be (after researching) but will be getting a new one in a week)Anyway, I have one common orange one about 2 and half inches in length and a grey, black and orange and silver one slightly bigger. The problem is my orange one. He started to be very lethargic about a week and a half ago, I put it down to me moving the tank, however after two days no improvement. I got disease safe and tried that plus extra oxygen tablets and that hasn't worked. I've been doing 30% water changes every two days and did one full change yesterday, adding tonic salt, swim bladder treatment, disease safe and obviously tap safe. It occasionally perks up but most of the time he is bobbing on the water (not gulping for air) but not interested in food or anything. The dorsal fin is clamped as have his anal fins however they seem to be less clamped this morning. The grey one has now started nibbling at his tail every now and again
I just feel so sorry for him, is there anything I can do.
All nitrates etc measuring fine and the other fish is thriving.
Thanks

PS - I had a common goldfish won at the fair for 14 yrs

Update:
I've just come back in after being out for two hours and the orange ones tail has been nibbled at! The fish have now been separated and the orange one is in a temporary home until I can get a new tank on Wednesday.
If anyone has any advice I would be really grateful as hate seeing my fish sick

Hi

Common goldfish really should be in a pond, not a tank. What size tank are you intending to get?

Can you also post answers to the following questions so we can advise further?

What filtration does the tank have?
How long has the tank been set up?
Was it cycled using ammonia/fishfood for 4-6 weeks before adding any fish?
How often do you do a partial water change and how much each time?
Do you always use dechlorinator when adding water to the tank?
What are your current test results for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH?

Hi

I say common goldfish - I actually don't know what they are but they were bought from a reputable pet shop who has been in the area since I was a child (34 yrs ago)
(according to pets at home my results are)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 10-20 ppm
pH: 7.6.

600L/H Aquarium Internal Fish Tank Filter Pump All Pond Solutions 600IF - thought it would be ok got it off Amazon.

Partial water change done every 2-3 days varying between 20/30% and then a 50% once a week and full change every two- three. Always use a dechlorinator - gold tap safe.

Tank was'nt cycled prior to getting these two but they went into the same water they came in as I asked for extra bags of their water from the shop so it wasn't a shock to their system.

Had planned on getting a 20 gallon (ish) tank for the two of them however if they can't be together I will get another 10gallon one for the gold one if it survives.

The pet shop said that an additional oxygen tablet wouldn't hurt the fish

Quote:

You say the pet shop told you the readings were ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate 10-20ppm. Did they actually write the results down for you, or did they just tell you it's fine? Ideally, it's best if you can have your own test kit, such as API master test kit.

Carrying out a full water change is unnecessary and can shock a fish, which in turn, can prove fatal. The most you'd need to change, realistically, is 50% and even then, I'd say that should only ever be in emergencies.

10gal is far too small for a common goldy They grow to around 1ft in length and really are pond fish. Even fancies should be in a 30gal tank (and that's for 1). Sorry, I know it's probably not what you want to hear.

How long has the tank been set up?

Thanks, I'll look for a bigger tank. Why don't pet shops tell you this. My 14 yr old fish was kept in a 15 pint bowl for his whole life (he jumped out once and my dad gave him a drop of whiskey which revived him)

They didn't write it down no, but I will be getting a kit for myself when I get the new tank. The other fish is absolutely thriving and now they have been seperated the orange one seems much calmer. Cant be nice having your tail shredded and nibbled upon.

I have to say it may not be a common goldfish, its the freshwater fish that are sold at most pet shops (not sure what breed they are - that sounds terrible doesn't it)
I don't want my fish to die

Hi, sorry to here of the fishy woes

Just to add to what Linz has mentioned, if they are common goldfish (single tails) then they are not suited to tanks I'm afraid as they are pond fish really. You would need something far bigger than 40 gallon to house them short-medium term. Fancies - those usually with a double tail - require 40 gallons min if you intend to house a pair.

You do not indicate when the tests were actually undertaken but when ill health starts like this it's useful to have your own kit so you can test each day. It may well have been an ammonia or nitrate spike that was missed simply due to the timing of the tests. Daily water changes of 25% would assist greatly until you can source a much larger tank.

My other concern though is the water treatment you are using. Interpet 'Bioactive' Tap Safe - treats chlorine and chloramine, as well as heavy metals so is the preferred treatment of the two available from this manufacturer. Interpet 'Gold' Tap Safe only deals with chlorine, not the chloramine aspect.

Chloramine which more water companies are now switching to as it's more stable can take weeks to wear off, sometimes far longer than that and it's presence in the tank can make fish ill, displaying similar signs to nitrite poisoning. Chloramine would also affect the filter bacteria although if the P@H test is to be believed, this can probably be ruled out. Given your water board will not tell you if they switch to this in the future, good to know this info now.

Bringing existing water to a new tank will not assist with the bacteria and this lives in the filter as opposed to the water. Extra volume and airation can do no harm at the minute. I would suggest a large plastic storage crate to which you can add more volume and move the existing filter over to. Airstones are far more effective the o2 tabs. One of these would make a good emergency home

Staples 145 litre Really Useful Storage Box: http://www.staples.co.uk/office-suppl ... boxes/145-litre-clear-box

Any questions, fire away.

See I am so naive, I didn't even realise interpret did more than one tap safe. I'll be off to staples in the morning for one of them, thank you, and also will get some of the more effective tap safe. I think they are fancies after googling some pictures of them
Thanks so much for your help, fingers crossed my little fish makes it, so worried about him and hate seeing his tail in tatters (how long should it take to repair?)
My other question is he did seem to have swim bladder so tried the shelled peas but he wouldn't eat them so gave the interpret swim bladder treatment (hence the full tank change to make sure the dosage was correct)
How long can I wait until adding another dose
Thanks

TBH, I would hold off the meds you actually have for now.

If his tail is looking very bad and a few days in more volume doesn't seem to be helping, then really you need to be looking at a more effective med than the brands you have to hand. Esha 2000 would usually be recommended.

As for the swimbladder you mention, this is actually just a symptom, not a disease in itself. Many things can trigger it so it's often a case or trial and see. It can be related to poor water quality, constipation, a bacterial infection, diet, higher levels of nitrate or just plain old genetics given how these fish have been bred. Throwing meds into a small volume of water when unsure of the actual diagnosis can put more stress onto an already ill fish.

There are only limited meds that can be combined that would not become somewhat toxic to fish, the first being API Melafix and Pimafix, these can be combined with no problem but are not appropriate for your fish right now. The other two are Esha Exit and Esha 2000. No other meds should be mixed at all.

As with any poorly fish, start with the easy contenders first...

Water quality and volume - ensure tank is of adequate volume and water is safe. Daily testing may be required (API Freshwater Master Test Kit is good, £10 cheaper on-line than in the shops). Daily water chnages may be required.

Constipation - have you seen the fish poo? Is it long and clear, any content as such? Apologies, poo talk is required! De-sheeled peas do work wonders, then feed these once a week usually after a 'fast day' as a good general unblocker.

Baterial infection - would usually present with other symptoms though as well. Poo, yes there again, bit bubbly perhaps?

Diet - Floating flake is an absolute nightmare for a lot of fish. Sinking pellets (even pre-soaked) often remedy. Fancies should be given a varied diet of sinking pellets, live/frozen food as a treat (blood worms, mosquito larve etc) algae wafers and and lots of blanched/par boiled greens, such as cauliflower, broccoli, spinach etc. The trick is to mix it up each day. Is he getting a varied diet?

You can get 'screwcumbers' to hold down blanched greens or veggie clips on a suction pad to stop these floating.

Nitrate - your tank nitrate looks OK Fancies can suffer from floatyness if nitrate reads more than 20ppm.

Genetics - just that. No cure really only TLC.

Hope that helps a tad.

Thank you to everyone,fngers crossed he's still with me in the morning, does seem much more settled now that he is not being attacked