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new fish tank with high PH (Also posted in practicalfishkeeping forum)
Posted on: Today 13:47
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Today 11:31
From: Middlesex
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Hi Guys

I am pretty new to the hobby of fish keeping but so far i am really finding the experience rewarding

however, being a newbie in this hobby means you will make some mistakes along the way. Hence, I am looking for guidance from the experience folks here

i have a JUWEL Trigon 190 tank, i have already put in the substrate for nutrition of the plants and on top of that i put in white sand, i have already put in a number of tropical plants including Anubis, sword leaves, and moss grass. The tank now has been running for a week and a half so it is still in the cycling phase (I think). i have used API quickstart, API Stress Coat and Stress Zyme. i added the API products to the tank water and left the pump up and heater running for three days to allow the bacteria to start working. i then added 4 molly fishes in the fourth day. the fishes so far look healthy and even gave birth in teh tank with plenty of babies swimming in the tank. However, I would probably should have waited until the nitrite level goes to 0 which is now fluctuation between 0.5 and 0.25 ppm

the mistake i made was not to buy the API liquid test kit and depended on the test stripes which gave inaccurate readings.

the situation is that my tap water is around 7.4 PH GH is between 200-300 and the KH is about 120

the strange thing is that as soon as i put the water in my tank my PH shoots to 8.0-8.2. now I know that this is because the white sand is actually crushed coral  which I didnít know when I bought it that it is actually a crushed coral sand

so looks like i am faced with three options here (or may be more if anyone can suggest)
1- empty the tank, remove the plants, remove the sand and then put new white river sand in Although I might end up not remove all the sand because some of it might still be on the bottom substrate I am using for the plants growth. This will be a messy job 
2- or look into stocking the tank with Cichlids? However, I doesnít look like the mollies will survive well with the Cichlids?
3- use agents to reduce the water PH like peat moss and almond leaves, however, the PH might fluctuate (which I ma told is very bad for the fish) when I do the water change (only planning to carry out 20% water changes once the tank is fully cycled (ie ammonia and nitrite of 0)

Ideally, I want my tank to have In addition to the mollies, corydorus cat, gourami fish, plecos, and playts but I am not sure if they will be able to handle the PH of 8

I would really appreciate your help and advice guys

Cheers
H



Re: Heavy Duty Pond Net
Posted on: Today 8:20
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Good luck, may I ask that if you do find something you post back, as it may help others in the future.

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No reply to your post? CLICK ME .

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Re: Sick goldfish - red streaks in tail and slight swelling
Posted on: Ystrday 23:32
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18/1/2017 5:05
From: United States
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Yes, I will do a 50% water change tomorrow. How should I do it? Can you give steps on how I should change the water and how I should cycle both tanks? You're the one with more knowledge here. I'd rather take advice from you. Again, thank you for everything. It'll make me so happy to see the fish no longer suffer once he recovers, if he does.

Will the ick remedy help?



Re: Sick goldfish - red streaks in tail and slight swelling
Posted on: Ystrday 23:05
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The most important issue is that the filter is cycled. It/its media carries 90%+ of the beneficial bacteria required to process the fish's waste; the remainder will be in the substrate and decor.

Therefore, what is required is either to move the filter with the filter media into the new tank or to transfer the filter media into the new filter. If either of these hasn't happened, then what will be happening is that the fish will be going through a fish-in cycle, essentially with the filter playing catch-up in building up sufficient beneficial bacteria to be able to process the fish's waste. This will account for the problems, not the actual tank itself. It's absolutely crucial that you get an ammonia test, so that you can help monitor this more closely.

Moving him back into the smaller tank won't be of any benefit - in fact, you'll need to do even more frequent water changes, possibly 50% daily.

You ought to be doing 30% water changes at least once a week with the larger tank - or more if the water is toxic (ie you have any ammonia or nitrite, or if nitrates are more than 20 above whatever your tap water reading is). While the tank is cycling, though, you will need to do more than this - at least 10% each day but more if the water is at toxic levels as described.

Hope I've explained this a bit better but feel free to ask further questions. Keep us posted.



Re: Sick goldfish - red streaks in tail and slight swelling
Posted on: Ystrday 23:04
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From: United States
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I bought the Marineland ick remedy as instructed by the pet store. I put in the ick treatment before I put him in the old 10 gallon tank, separate from the other fish. Will it be helpful?



Re: Sick goldfish - red streaks in tail and slight swelling
Posted on: Ystrday 22:09
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From: United States
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Hello, we got the 5 in 1 api test kit. Unfortunately I was not able to get the liquid based one, so I had to get the paper.
Here are the results:
Nitrate 20-40
Nitrite 0
Ph 7
Kh 80 to 120
Gh 30

We first put the fish in a little plastic box. We put the rocks and plants in. We transfered some water from the old tank into the new tank, and added dechlorinated water from our faucet into the tank. After the rocks, plants, and clean water was in there, we put the fish back in. I must admit that the last water change was 2 weeks ago.

For now, we will be putting him back in the 10 gallon tank until we solve this problem



Re: Black Tetras
Posted on: Ystrday 18:44
Joined:
14/2/2012 13:40
From: Vietnam
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Hi

That's something very normal and it's a mistake almost all of us make :)

You should never trust a fish shop. Google that line and you will see this is not the only site advice that :P

Their goal is to make a living, not welfare of the fish :)

You really should upgrade your tank but your 20l won't be a complete useless.
- You can make a carefully aquascaped tank as a decoration
- You can also keep some shrimps (However I would not recommend you to do this as a beginner, keeping live stock in small container is much harder as water chemistry can easily fluctuate and kill live stock)

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They're not just fish.... they're man's friends


Re: Black Tetras
Posted on: Ystrday 15:47
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21/2/2017 13:15
From: Lancashire
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thank you for your reply and help.
The people at petsathome assured me they would be fine in 20L. I took her advice maybe I shouldnt have done



Re: Dead fish
Posted on: Ystrday 15:05
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21/2/2017 13:15
From: Lancashire
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thank you I will remove it asap



Re: Dead fish
Posted on: Ystrday 14:53
Joined:
14/2/2012 13:40
From: Vietnam
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Posts: 1304
Hi,

Yes you must remove them at all cost. There're just too many risks.

The shrimps will eat them, and other fish might too. If the fish died of sickness/parasite then there's a very high chance it will infect everything else.

Also decaying fish will heavily pollute the tank. which is extremely harmful to shrimps and fish.

_________________
They're not just fish.... they're man's friends



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