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Biorbs and Biubes
Published by Cathy on 21/1/2007 (8133 reads)
Essential reading for all owners of Biorbs and Biubes, this article co-written by Cathie and Peediepixie is a great source of information
If you’ve got a Biorb you may have been given some bad information regarding which fish they are suitable for as well as the care and maintenance routine for your Biorb.
We’ll start at the beginning : you’ve got your fishless cycle going and you’re thinking about which fish to put in your Biorb. Contrary to popular belief, Biorbs are totally unsuitable for Goldfish, (and even the makers of the Biorb now say on their website that single tails and various sorts of fancy goldfish should not be kept in them). Goldfish need at least 8 gallons (36 litres) each and can reach from 8” long to over 1’ depending on which type of goldfish you have. Biorbs are fine for smaller fish. If you want to leave your tank unheated you could have a small shoal of White Cloud Mountain Minnows (WCMM’s). If you have a heater you could have a small shoal of Tetras or Guppies etc. or one male Betta (with a clamp to slow down the airline). Bottom dwelling fish such as Corydoras are not suitable for your Biorb as they require fine sand like substrate so they don’t damage their barbells (sp. - barbel I think) and also as they like to root around in the substrate for food.
Biorb substrate consists of rough ‘lumps’ of rock. These supplement the filter by providing extra surface area for bacteria to grow on. It may be worth buying an extra packet of substrate to put in your tank to ensure a sufficient amount of bacteria is present. Don’t be tempted to use an alternative prettier substrate - sand or fine gravel will clog the filter, smooth pebbles will not provide enough surface area for biological filtration. Also, because of the shape of the substrate, food can easily fall through the pieces and rot underneath, when cleaning your tank be careful to remove any old food under the substrate. Goldfish like to route around in substrate searching for food and the substrate is not suitable for this. If you wish to feed peas or similar, to prevent the peas from falling between the rocks and rotting, you could place them on a small plate in the tank.
Ok, cycle is complete, you’ve added your (small) fish and now you need to think about your maintenance routine: filter cleaning etc. You need to remove 20-25% of the water weekly to keep the water clean. Replace with fresh dechlorinated water. (You do not need to add the mystery sachets supplied with Biorb filter cartridges). You can wipe the sides of the tank with a soft sponge/cloth so as not to scratch the plastic.
Despite what the Biorb instructions tell you, when you clean your filter (once a month) you SHOULD NOT remove and throw away the entire filter cartridge as doing so will remove all of the good bacteria built up in the cycle you did. Instead, the first time you do this, tip out and throw away the black granules (carbon) and white granules (zeolite). You will not need these again unless you need to add some carbon granules in the future to remove medication. Rinse the cartridge and sponge in a bucket containing old tank water so you don’t kill off any bacteria living there, then replace. Do this every month until the sponge is in danger of falling apart, then replace half one month, half the next.
Finally, live plants are great for water quality and therefore the fish too, Unfortunately Biorb substrate and lighting are not suited to growing many aquatic plants. However, plants such as Java Fern and Anubias can be attached to rock or bogwood and have low lighting requirements. Also moss balls are floating plants with minimal effort required to grow them and are great at combating algae growth.
Written by Cathie and Kirsten (Peediepixie)
The comments are owned by the poster. We aren't responsible for their content.
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| gluggy |
Posted: 4/2/2007 22:45 Updated: 4/2/2007 22:45 |
Just popping in   Joined: 4/2/2007 From: County Durham Posts: 9 |
 thanks for the advice i wish i knew of this site & read this article 6 months ago! i moved house and decided my little fishy friend (a black moor called Neo)needed a new house too, so decided to buy him a little sparkly new bio orb (30L).after cycling the tank and trying to do everything "properly"(according to manufacturers instructions)i was gutted when he died for no apparent reason. since then i've lost another 3 black moors and i thought that maybe they just weren't suited to the bio orb.(was going to get rid of the darn thing) now i know that it's probably due to the fact that i was following the manufacturers guidlines and changing the filter too often. I've now got a couple of hardy goldfish and will follow your guidlines ..
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| ReefOneLtd |
Posted: 13/2/2007 13:16 Updated: 13/2/2007 13:16 |
Just popping in   Joined: 13/2/2007 From: Posts: 1 |
 biOrbs & biUbes Hello Cathy & Kirsten, Thank you for providing further information on the biOrb aquarium, I am pleased that you have taken time to look at our product in detail. However, I would like to point out a couple of things where I think you may have misunderstood how the biOrb works. We don't recommend fishless cycling as the biOrb is aimed generally at the beginner, fishless cycling can be daunting and there are also no guarantees that it will be successful. Even if you do use fishless cycling it is advisable to still add fish very gradually. For example, in the biOrb 30 we recommend adding fish at a rate of 1 small hardy fantail OR 3 minnow sized fish every 4 weeks. This way, harmful ammonia does not peak too high. We have (always) recommended small fantails or small tropicals and have (always) advised against keeping common goldfish (comets, shubunkins) and varieties of fantail that can grow very large (such as Oranda). Water volume alone is not enough to determine stocking densities although it is used as a general guide when referring to the array of aquariums on the market. Water quality is the important factor and providing the instructions are followed and the fish are the correct type and healthy the biOrb can more than cater for them. I would refer you to OATA (of which we are members) and specifically to Appendix A of their code of conduct http://www.ornamentalfish.org/association/code/conduct/appendixa.php As with all aquariums, things can go wrong, the mechanics may break down, the fish may be of poor health, the temperature too high, local water etc and with the best intentions users do sometimes get it wrong. Zoe has emailed us and we will help her to get established with healthy fish. From her previous post it looks as though she has been keeping black moors, they can be quite delicate and are best put in last when the aquarium is more established. The shape of the substrate does allow food and debris to fall through, this is intentional. Any debris that falls is pulled through into the filter cartridge where it is trapped and removed when the cartridge is changed. Unlike other aquariums, this means that you do not get debris rotting in the substrate and the aquarium is cleaner. The biOrb is supplied with a food that floats and doesn’t sink until the fish eat it. You do not need to change the water so often in the biOrb, the ‘mystery’ sachets are dechlorinator and bacteria culture. With regard to the filter a common fishkeeping mistake is to remove the filter sponge or clean in tap water and therefore kill the bacteria so I can understand your concern. However, this is on of the reasons why the biOrb is designed in such a way - the ceramic media is the biological filter and therefore is not affected by removal of the filter cartridge. You can add more ceramic media to the biOrb although the media supplied has the surface area of a football pitch. The cartridge also contains more than just carbon and should be replaced with new to help maintain water quality. http://www.reef-one.com/aquarium-care/faqs.htm If you have any questions we would be more than happy to answer them. Kind regards, Reef One Customer Care Team.
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| Goldy |
Posted: 15/2/2007 12:14 Updated: 15/2/2007 12:14 |
Forum Manager   Joined: 10/3/2004 From: Cheshire Posts: 17756 |
 Re: biOrbs & biUbes Thank you for that Reef one 
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| Elvis |
Posted: 26/2/2007 15:58 Updated: 26/2/2007 15:58 |
Just popping in   Joined: 26/2/2007 From: Posts: 1 |
 Re: biOrbs & biUbes OK - Complete novice here who has a Biorb 30L. I too have lost a couple of Moors and Fancies. I am looking to restock. Is it best I bite the bullet now and purchase a heater and go down the neon tetra/Guppie route? If so, how many would youadvise stocking in the tank?
If I stay with a cold water tank, which is the hardiest fish to go for as my little boy is starting to get quite upset with the rate of loss of his new fish.
I tend to change the filter completely every 6 weeks and conduct a 20% water change at the same time. I note that someone has recommended not completing a full change of filter - does anyone else agree with this or is it still recommended to change it completely every 6-8 weeks?
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| Anonymous |
Posted: 26/2/2007 22:15 Updated: 26/2/2007 22:22 |
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 My tuppence worth I have had a (tropical) bi-orb 30 for nearly three years now. I first set it up as a simple tank for simple tropicals but I fell in love with Corys. The tank turn out to be unsuitable (I squashed a couple under the filter! and even had one {and an oto} catch itself unsidedown in the filter tube) so perhaps the next tank (NO UGF!!!) but I DID use pea-sized gravel and have had no problems. I make sure I hoover the gravel (moving it about to disturb any crap) whenever I changed the water. I only ever change the filter sponges about once every six months (half one month, half the next) and use loose carbon. The airstone gets cleaned and changed even less (when it restricts airflow, I've even left it out entirly for months when I 'lost' it). I presently use peat as a media (it's a planted tank, UGFs suck!) instead of the carbon. I test at least every couple of weeks and I very rarely get figure higher that negligible nigtate and ammonia and 10ppm nitrate so I must be doing something right. My tetras love it.  I think I found out to my cost was when I tried uping the lights. I went to 50 watts and the bulbs blue (?). So I replaced it with 35 watts and it went again after a few hours only the trusty multimeter said the powerpack had gone instead. So I look for a spare on the net (neons look lovely in the dark) and found a supplier who said that there is a fuse in the powerpack that blows if a load OF MORE THAN 20 WATTS is used. So do NOT use more than a 20 watt bulb. 
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| fredrick_more |
Posted: 31/3/2007 23:21 Updated: 31/3/2007 23:21 |
Pond Moderator   Joined: 4/3/2005 From: Nottinghamshire Posts: 3231 |
 Re: biOrbs & biUbes Hi Reef, Ive just seen your post; Just got a few things i feel i need to point out; 1)Fancy goldfish are not hardy and nearly varaties will grow to about 8" ifthey survive long enough. 2)Your right volume isnt the right tool to use for stocking densities, instead surface area should be, i would hate to think what the biorbs surface area is. 3)You say any food which falls in the media will be sucked up in the sponge, but still its rotting and producing the same about of ammonia if it was floating the tank. 4)The foam should not be changed every 4 to 6 weeks as all bacteria are being wasted and is utterly pointless, and when you take the media out to take the foam out, alot of the bacteria will die unless kept wet. 5)24 hours is not enough time to leave a tank standing before adding fish. 6)Fancy goldfish should not be fed floating food. Dont get me wrong here, you got a popular product and it sells and where i work we sell alot, doesnt mean it aint got design flaws. And lets face it you care more about the money in the bank than the amount of dead fish in the bin or down the loo, and thats fair as your a business, and need to make money 
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| Coralline |
Posted: 1/4/2007 1:42 Updated: 11/2/2008 21:23 |
Marine Moderator   Joined: 8/6/2005 From: Worcestershire Posts: 5027 |
 Re: biOrbs & biUbes Quote: reef one wrote: We don't recommend fishless cycling as the biOrb is aimed generally at the beginner, fishless cycling can be daunting and there are also no guarantees that it will be successful. Even if you do use fishless cycling it is advisable to still add fish very gradually. For example, in the biOrb 30 we recommend adding fish at a rate of 1 small hardy fantail OR 3 minnow sized fish every 4 weeks. This way, harmful ammonia does not peak too high.
as you welcome questions, why do you think this is the best way for beginners to be introduced to the hobby? when understanding the nitrogen cycle is one of the most important things to grasp to become a successful fishkeeper? IMO the nitrogen cycle is the first thing that should be explained. i would say its more 'daunting' to new fishkeeper to not know why their fish are ill after following the 'incomplete' instructions that are supplied with these tanks. you should not be advising newcomers to keep fish in your tanks that have the potential to grow too big to be suitable to live in the tanks. it's just not fair to the fish... i wonder how many of the posts about bi-orb problems reef one read while they were here? or if they only popped in to justify the problems we fish keepers have with the instructions and the product. 
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| Anonymous |
Posted: 1/1/2008 17:56 Updated: 1/1/2008 17:56 |
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 Re: biOrbs & biUbes I just got a bio orb for xmas and set it up all correct ,i bought 2 danios and 2 guppies. they been very happy in the tank for about 5 days but one of my fish seems to have a white layer on its head does anyone know ? 
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| fishquest |
Posted: 11/2/2008 19:27 Updated: 11/2/2008 19:34 |
Just popping in   Joined: 9/2/2008 From: Posts: 1 |
 Re: biOrbs & biUbes Thank you so much for your article. I only wish I had read it before I bought my Biorb. I find ReefOne’s advertising to be incredibly misleading (with all those fancy goldfish on the box) and their instructions absolutely terrible. As an owner of a Biorb, I can say you are correct Cathy and Kirsten,the shape of the substrate does allow food and debris to fall through, and I will attest that they are not pulled through into the filter cartrage where they are removed as the company claims. Instead, they just sit there, decay and grow bacteria or fungus while my goldfish tries to get at them. This is not because I over feed my goldfish either. I feed my gold fish a limited amount of food that floats but she does not like to eat from the top. She waits for the food to sink and goes after it. All too often pieces drift down into cracks or spaces that she can’t get to where it grows into a filthy mess, requiring much more frequent gravel vacuuming and water changes than should ordinarily be required. It is also a big draw back that the filter is on the bottom. When you take it out, you unload all the grime into the water, thus your water change must be done after changing/washing the filter. After reading your HONEST, accurate and informative article, I have decided that I will definitely go with your advice and wash my filters with aquarium water several times before needing to replace them. I am sure I stand to gain a happier healthy fish by following your advice since there should be less risk of resetting my tank. It will also be a lot easier on my pocket book! I have to say that I do like the look of my Biorb but, I don’t like being misled. My ONE fancy goldfish- like SEVERAL of the ones pictured on the box, and literature, will soon out grow my Biorb tank (which by the way is also entirely misleading as you could never keep that many fancy goldfish in an 8 gallon Biorb). But, when my “little” fish does outgrow her tank you can bet that I won’t be purchasing the next size up as replacement, nor will I be recommending this product one to anyone I know. 
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| sarah75 |
Posted: 8/6/2008 9:25 Updated: 8/6/2008 9:25 |
Just popping in   Joined: 8/6/2008 From: - Posts: 1 |
 Re: Biorbs and Biubes Hello, im new to this site and dont even know if im posting this in the right place! :) Ive had a bio orb for 18 mths now, and its been great, but now i have a problem with water in my air pump line!! I just wondered if anyone can suggest how to fix it??? It would be greatly appreciated! Thanku Sarah 
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| NikkiG |
Posted: 10/6/2008 13:48 Updated: 10/6/2008 13:48 |
Just popping in   Joined: 10/6/2008 From: - Posts: 1 |
 Re: Biorbs and Biubes Hi All, I've also have had nothing but problems with my Biorb. I had my Goldfish for 9 years and decided that he needed a new home, so i bought him a Biorb. He was fine for about a week and then died, we was very upset! Since then we have tried many new goldfish, normal and fancy ones and plus only ever having one at a time as suggested but with absolutely no luck at all. I got to the point where i was checking the water quality every day to try and keep the fish healthy, the quality was always perfect but they still kept dying I do not think these tanks are appropriate for Goldfish and had i'd known that before i bought it, i definately wouldn't have!! I am now getting rid of my tank (a complete waste of 100) as i can't stand killing anymore fish. I woudn't recommend getting one. Good luck everyone. 
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